Rule of Third in Photography

Rule of Third in Photography - One of the main factors that distinguish between an impressive photo with a common photo is COMPOSITION or how the object / subject is placed in a photograph. Using the Rule of Thirds is not a fixed rule, but only a simple composition rules or guidelines to improve the composition of your photos.

Rule of Third is the development of symmetry Golden Ratio which has long been known in the art. In the Rule of Third image frame is divided into three vertical sections and three horizontal sections.
 

Four lines with dots between them identify a part or place of the "Point of Interest" and that is certainly where you should put the subject (along the lines or at the intersection) to create balance and impressive photographs. An easy way to remember is: Rule of Thirds avoid placing the subject in the CENTRAL square section.

The concept of the Rule of Thirds contrary to the habits that occur in novice photographers with their photos always put the subject right in the middle of the frame or often called dead center. Rule of the composition is a foundation for the balance of picture elements so that the overall picture looks more impressive. Rule of Thirds naturally guide the audience eyes to the point of "Point of Interest" or "Focal Point", and not to the middle of frame. This rule identifies the Point of Interest (POI).
 

The Principles of Rule of Third

1. Although it should not be strictly correct, the placement of objects in the frame should be adjusted to the subdivision.
2. Try to put the most interesting part of the object on one of the four points of intersection.
3. The most interesting part of the object can be anything, for example: eye, face, natural boundary, the contrast of light and shadow, etc..
4. Not all four points must be filled simultaneously, just one. And elements of a point of interest can be either a human or an inanimate object.

Thus, in applying the rule of third in the photo that you need to consider before push button release are:
1. What is a point of interest (POI) of our pictures. Which part becomes the main point of the most interesting in our photos?
2. Then divide the image in the viewfinder into the intersection as shown above.
3. At what point is a point of interest is to be placed? Select one of the four lines meeting points.

Tips

Cropping is a powerful weapon to get the right composition. Setting composition when shooting will take time and you may miss the moment. It is therefore an object shoot using the highest resolution with the free space around the object rather relieved to be free to do the cropping.
 

Have a nice shots!

Hyperfocal Distance

Hyperfocal Distance - call it a zone of focus - is the distance from the lens to the focal point, which from the focal point to the point of infinite distance (infinity) is sharp all. By using this technique we also get half of the hyperfocal distance point in the direction of the lens take sharp, in terms of photography is called acceptable sharpness.

From the picture above, if we peep from the viewfinder and put focus point at point A, then from the point A to infinity will be entered in the field of DOF (depth of field) . But we also get the sharpness that is half the distance from point A to the lens also sharp. Or in other words, from the point B to infinity will be sharp.

At the time of celluloid camera lens we get "zone of focus" by reading the enclosed space of the aperture used. See the pictures below:
 

If you want to make a landscape photograph with the lens and f16 aperture (smallest aperture), set focus about 6m, the closest foreground focus is about 2.9m. It means from the distance 2.9m to infinity will be sharp focused at f16 aperture.

The main goal of knowing the hyperfocal distance is to get the sharpness wide open from the focal point to the point of infinity in landscape photography. So the point is to find the right focus distance to get the focal plane broadest of foreground to background, because in landscape photography we often include foreground and background in the same photo frame in sharp condition evenly.

Thus, Hyperfocal Distance is a useful feature that is the function of the lens aperture (f stop), distance and focal length.

The use of a narrow aperture (e.g. f11, f16 or f22) is helping this process. This is due to the narrow aperture sharp space tends to expand. However, landscape photography is often even more demanding. Foreground that we use often is no more than 20-30 cm in front of the lens. Besides all the areas in the picture sharpness is very important for landscape photographers, they do not want any area that is not sharp. This requires precise autofocus point selection.

In these cases we use hyperfocal technique. This technique essentially select an object at a certain distance to be the focal point. By selecting an object with a certain distance we "maximize" sharp space available. This technique depends on the type of camera body (i.e. sensor size) that is used, aperture and focal length used.

In these cases we use hyperfocal technique . This technique essentially select an object at a certain distance to be the focal point. By selecting an object with a certain distance we "maximize" sharp space available. This technique depends on the type of body that is used, aperture and focal length used. To calculate you can use DOF Master Calculator . This software is available free of charge either online or on the iPhone and Windows Mobile. And you can make a table according to the device you want to take photography.
 

In the "DOF Master Calculator" you must first enter the "body type" that you use, "aperture" and "focal length". Once you enter this parameter is then seen in the red box no. 1 appears the number "hyperfocal distance". After that we enter the hyperfocal distance to the "subject distance" so "far limit" in the blue box no. 2 to "infinity". If it has not reached the "infinity" increase slightly to reach "infinity". The number "hyperfocal distance" is the distance obtained where we have to do focusing.

"Near limit" in the blue box no.2 is the shortest distance from the lens is still in the category of sharp. While "far limit" is the furthest distance that is still in the category of sharp. Or "zone of focus" were among the "near limit" and "far limit".

Reference to calculate hyperfocal distance can be found in en.wikipedia.org 

Tips:

• Hyperfocal technique is especially needed if we use the foreground within the "extreme" close to the lens. If the distance is far enough away from the lens (i.e. 3-4 meters) the technique is no longer relevant.

• Make a stop down to ensure sharpness. Suppose you use a Canon 50D body, 18mm focal length and aperture f11, resulting from the DOF Master Calculator 1.53m hyperfocal distance and near the limit of 0.76m. To assure sharpness, you set the aperture at f16 (1 step below), so the foreground with a distance 76cm in front of the lens certainly sharp.

Tips on Buying Used Lens

Tips on Buying Used Lens - After you read guide to buy a DSLR camera lenses on this post and this post, one time you need a lens, but the financial situation is not enough to buy a new lens, so the solution is you have to look for second hand lenses. Excess buy second-hand lens is the price is cheaper than a new lens, but you should be careful before buying, so that your savings are not worth it.

Here are tips before you buy a second-hand lens:

1. Determine the required camera facility, type and brand of lenses that fit within the desired range of the available budget. To get an idea of price ranges, contact some camera stores over the phone.


2. Go to store lens, try a new lens, watch AF ring and zoom ring. some lenses rotate AF ring as it searches for its focus, this will affect the use of circular polarize filter (CPL). As you understand the conditions of the new lens, you will be expected to get a reference of comparison to the used lens.


3. Make sure you try first lens you want to buy. Make sure the autofocus-motor works smoothly (if the lens autofocus)


4. Check also part of the lens, do not get any scratches, dewy, or fungi.


5. Note the bolt on the outside and inside of the lens, if the bolt is not good, it means that the lens has been opened before.


6. For conditions inside the lens, bring a small flashlight to see it, either from the front or from the rear, notice the dust on the inside of the lens, if it can be tolerated or not.


7. Try to put the lens on the camera for checking the DOF (depth of field), use a sheet of newspaper, put the paper on a flat surface, take the photo paper at an angle of about 40 degrees. focus on one word, e.g. the word "lens-kit", see the results, if the word "lens-kit" clearer than the surrounding words, means the lens is still in good condition, but these pictures could show the wrong focus sharp if not the word "lens-kit" is. This checking is very useful especially for a lens with a large aperture specifications, such as f/2.8 aperture or below, and make sure all lenses functions running properly.


8. Check that the lens aperture setting close fit in the shooting. Go to the back of the camera, set in Bulb mode, and press the shutter. Perform this test on the entire range of the lens aperture.


9. Avoid lens with a zoom or focusing mechanism falters, too hard, or too loose.


10. Inspect the filter thread on the front of the lens, and make sure there is no damage or jam. When in doubt, do a test by installing a filter on the lens.


11. Avoid buying lenses online from an individual seller you do not know very well, because it's been a lot of fraud. Also avoid to transfer a down payment or pay in full with the promise of the lens will be shipped the same day, except to an online thrift shop that you know well.


12. Also make sure you receive a receipt from the seller for warranty claims, if any, and also to make sure that the lens you buy is not illegal.

Consider Before Buying Digital SLR Camera Part 2

Consider Before Buying Digital SLR Camera Part 2 - After you read non-technical considerations before buying a DSLR camera on previous post, now I try to discuss technical considerations. Considerations in choosing a DSLR camera can be very different from the pick pocket camera. This difference is caused among others by:

1. DSLR is a system that can be customized according the specific needs of the owner, is very different from a pocket camera that is all in.

2. The difference in lens technology, sensors, image processors and operating the buttons on each camera, which in turn distinguishing character results.

3. Almost all compact cameras use CCD sensor size 1/2.5" Sony products, while the DSLR has plenty of options other than CCD technology, such as:

• Canon-developed CMOS (and later also used by Nikon)
• NMOS used by Olympus

It also has sensors with different physical sizes, namely:

• Full-frame, used for high-end camera Pro
• APS-C, used in camera entry level and semi-pro
• 4/3, used by Olympus and Panasonic.

4. Availability accessories & supplies in addition to body & lens.

The availability of equipment and accessories can be an important consideration. Buying a DSLR is basically buying a system. Once you buy it, the system will 'lock' you always use supplies and accessories that are compatible with.

In this case, I think Canon and Nikon have the advantage because - as an old player who leads the market - is a lot of 3rd party accessories available on the market, for example:

• Lens: Sigma, Tamron, Tokina
• Flash: Nissin, Metz
• Battery grip: different types of brands.

Certainly in terms of accessories, the lens becomes a major consideration (learn before buying lens here and here). And it does not mean other brand cameras, in addition to Canon and Nikon, have no excess. Some of the advantages to be noted are:

• Sony can use the Carl-Zeiss and Minolta lens.
• Olympus has an advantage in dynamic range and color saturation in addition to innovative technologies.
• Pentax can use the many old lenses that have been proven sharpness & quality.

However, if you want to pursue photography, you should pay attention to the system, buy a DSLR camera is to buy a system. Especially if you are experienced and have the equipment to one brand. The benchmarks that you should consider are:

• Technology will continue to evolve. Today's sophisticated body, in a few years will be out of date.

• The lens has a longer lifespan than the body.

• Ability to operate a photographer, sensitivity of capturing moments and technical ability are more important than the pursuit of technological development.

DSLR Lens Buying Guide - Part 2

DSLR Lens Buying Guide Part 2 is the next clues before you buy dslr lenses. Unlike if you have a pocket or a prosumer camera, where the lens can not be changed, the owner of DSLR camera lens requires precision in choosing to be purchased, as each type of lenses designed specifically for a particular shoot. But DSLR camera manufacturers anticipate the needs scene by attaching the kit lens that is a lens vario, which is designed to meet the initial needs of the buyer or user to a certain extent because the lens kit is economical to reduce the price of DSLR camera package offered to the market.

After a lot of shooting with the default kit lens camera the photographer will definitely feel the lack of such a kit lens, so that he would decide to buy a new and better lenses. The question is "what kind of lens you should buy?" For photographing macro would be better results if you use a macro lens, photographing landscape will be better results if you use a wide-angle with fixed-aperture. Similarly, macro photograph will not be good results if you use a wide angle lens.

To be emphasized here is no need to buy all types of lenses. Select the lens that best suits your photography needs the most preferred and most frequently performed.

To be able to decide what type of lens to buy, do some research as follows:

1. Take photos with the kit lens as often as possible with good planning.
2. Periodically, inventorying your photo collection and create a classification that found photography categories most frequently performed.
3. Detailed diagnostic photographs of most categories and determine the necessary repairs of the lens, for example:

• less sharp focus
• less blur bokeh
• less precise tonal
• less rapid response, etc..

Job demands

An understanding of this photo category, allowing us to determine the criteria of the lens that we need, for example:

• Paparazzi and sports journalists often take photos from a distance and speed of response necessary in order not to miss the moment, so need a telephoto lens with a focal distance (over 200 mm) equipped with an image stabilizer and ultrasonic motors.

• Photo studio with lighting products in a limited, need a lens with a shorter focal length (between 18 and 50 mm), can shoot from close range (macro) and wide aperture.

• Photo stage / show requires a lens capable of shooting in low-light conditions (wide aperture / fast lens), fast response (ultrasonic motor or the like), and long focus (200 mm or more).

• For photojournalism, travel, human interest, what is needed is flexibility and foresight to capture the moment. Vario lens with wide range and light weight is the best suited to meet these needs, e.g. 18-135 mm or 18-200 mm.

After knowing the criteria lenses we need, then we can look for a lens that suits needs and budget.

DSLR Lens Buying Guide - Part 1

DSLR lens buying guide part 1 - is the answer the question "Which lens should I buy?" after we know the types of DSLR lenses. This post will discuss some of the factors into consideration when buying a DSLR Lenses. Each of the features below will be different in each lens.
 

Lens Speed

Lens Speed or how fast a lens is actually closely related to the maximum aperture is owned by the lens. Aperture is the size of the lens opening when the shutter button is pressed (or how much light enters the camera). Aperture is denoted by F (f-stop).

The smaller number makes wider aperture, and there will be more light coming in at one time. This means the shutter speed becomes faster. Lens speed should you know due to:

• Lens "fast" with a maximum aperture of f/1.4 allows you to shoot in relatively dark place better than the lens has a maximum aperture of f / 4 or f/5.6, but that does not mean a slower lens is not good.

• The "fast" lens allows you to retrieve the moving object without getting motion blur.

• Lens "fast" allows you to get the depth of field of thinner / narrower. This means that when you focus on a subject in the foreground the background will be blurry or out of focus. Having a lens 'fast' of course means it is possible to get focusing a little more 'tricky', given the depth of field is used very thin / narrow. For example, when photographing portrait of a face with f/1.4 aperture and focus on the eyes, then most likely you will find the nose a little out of focus.

• The 'fast' lens is usually more expensive than a slower lens.

• The faster lenses would be helpful in terms of flash photography in recording or taking ambient light.

As a reference:

• Lens speed aperture lens with f / 4 is usually good for general purpose photography with good lighting conditions
• f/5.6 requires good lighting or features image stabilization (IS / VR)
• If you shoot indoor without flash, then at least use a lens with f/2.8, and
• If you are shooting indoor sports then at least use f/2.0 or 'faster'.

Focal Length

Focal length is length of the lens. This measurement is the distance between the middle of the optical lens to the focal point on the camera sensor. What you should know is that the focal length of a lens inform you when photographing subjects how much will be enlarged. Focal Length also inform the angle of view.

Focus Distance
This is the measurement between the end of the lens with the closest point of object. This is useful when shooting in macro or close-up photography, because this type of photography requires a very close distance of the object to end of the lens.

Image Stabilization

This feature is useful for minimizing vibration or shaking the camera (Camera Shake). Most DSLR lenses is now equipped with image stabilization (the Canon lens known as IS, and the Nikon lens is known as VR).

Camera Shake is a movement that occurs when the shutter is opened. This incident had a greater impact on the photos when we use slow speed, no tripod, and when use a lens with a longer focal length.

Image Stabilization helps photographers reduce camera shake at low light levels, but it does not freeze the moving subject. Basically IS allows us to take photos at lower shutter speed which the camera aperture open a little longer.

IS features mean additional cost on a lens, so you need a consideration of whether the activity of shooting with lenses that require this feature or not. Example: Do you frequently shoot in low light conditions using a long focal length without a tripod?

Budget

Considerations in buying lenses when going to upgrade is the cost. Most people agree that "we get what we pay", and we prefer to upgrade the lens than replace the camera body (depending on conditions). A little wary of the 'kit lens', in many circumstances these lenses are good, but we think it would be better if we buy only the camera body and then choose a better lens than the kit.

Brand

There are so many opinions say that to produce great photos should use a lens with the same brand with the camera compared to using cheaper third party lenses. In our opinion, for the first time try to find the same brand lens with the camera body, if you can not find try to find the lens of a third party. The fact is that every lens manufacturer has produced good and less good lenses that have been circulating in the market. Do your research before buying a lens through websites and forums that provide a review and comparison.

To be continued...here

Some Causes of Blur Photos

Some Causes Blur Photos - This post is a continuation of the post Tips for Sharp Picture. In this post I will emphasize the causes blurry photo.

Here are some of the causes:

Sensor size - Camera sensor size varies, the larger, more easily create a blurry background. Camera phones or compact cameras have a sensor size is relatively small compared with the digital SLR camera. In the digital SLR camera, subdivided some kind of sensor size.
The smallest to the largest are: Four thirds (ratio of 4 by 3), there is a crop sensor 1.6 (Canon), 1.5 (Nikon, Pentax, Sony), there is also a full frame (Nikon, Sony) and medium format (phase One, Leica S2, Pentax 645D).

Aperture - By using a large aperture lens (f/2.8 or larger such as f/1.4), then the background becomes more blurred.

No focus - This may be a result of the focus on the wrong part of the object, too close to the object so that the focus can not be obtained, the error selecting aperture that produces a very narrow depth of photo (smaller f number, e.g. f/2) or take photos too quickly without check first in the viewfinder.

The ratio of the distance between the subject of the picture with the camera and the distance between the subject with the background - The closer the camera is to the subject of the picture and the farther your subject with the background, the picture becomes more blurred.
Example: When the camera is on your subject distance of 10cm, and the distance of the subject of the image to the background of 20m, it can certainly be very blurred background. This is because the distance ratio of camera to subject and subject to background is very large.
Conversely if the distance of the camera to the subject of the picture 20m, and the distance to the subject of the photo background 10cm, it can certainly be a very clear background / sharp.

Lens focal length - The larger the lens focal length is used, then the background becomes more blurred. Example: Background photo taken with a 55mm lens focal length more blurred than when taken with a 18mm lens focal length.

Moving objects - is another form of photo blur due to take a moving object by using a slow shutter speed.

Camera shake - shake the camera is usually derived from the movement of the photographers themselves while taking pictures to produce photo blur.

Noise - The photos were found spots of the image pixels, usually derived from errors in setting the ISO, the more ISO noise level is also growing.

And here are additional tips to get sharp photos:

1. Hold the camera correctly when shooting
The best way to overcome camera shake when shooting is to use a tripod but it is not practical to carry because of its size that takes place. The practical way is to hold the camera properly.

2. Use the camera and lens that have Image Stabilization feature
Many cameras and lenses currently equipped with Image Stabilization (IS), which helps reduce the effects of camera shake when shooting so that the resulting images could be sharper. But keep in mind that IS only helps stabilize the camera movement is not stabilizing the movement of objects.

3. Use a good lens
If you have a higher budget then buy a better lens to get a sharper image quality than always using a standard lens. For Canon lenses, better quality for L-series lenses (professional series lenses).

4. Clean the camera equipment regularly
Each finished using the camera moreover used outdoors, do not forget to clean appliances such as camera lenses and camera sensor from stains, dust and dirt as it will affect the images (cause spotting on the photo).

The conclusion of this post is how to make the background out of focus photo becomes very blurry or bokeh?

The answer is:

• Use wide aperture lens
• Use longer focal length
• Note the distance ration between camera, subject and background
• Use camera with big sensor size.

Pocket or DSLR?

Pocket or DSLR - There are two major groups of different types of digital cameras: Pocket and DSLR.

1. Compact camera (commonly called pocket camera), is a compact system and has integrated, has a whole section full of a digital camera.
2. DSLR camera, is a camera system that consists of two major subsystems, namely:

• mechanical-electronic subsystems (body), and
• mechanical-optical subsystem (lens)

Main Difference

The most obvious difference between the two categories is the ability of DSLR camera to replace the lens that will be used in accordance with the needs of photographers. In addition the issue of this lens, there are significant differences, but not visible, the difference in sensor size:

• Compact digital cameras usually have a smaller sensor size 1/2.5 inch to 1/1.6 inches.

• DSLR cameras have the larger sensor size, which is 22.2 x 14.8 mm (APS-C) or 35x24 mm (full frame).

• The development of sensor technology enables Olympus to develop smaller size (4/3 inch) than the APS-C DSLR cameras for her which was followed by Panasonic cameras with micro-4/3.

The difference in sensor size has an impact on the ability of a camera captures the light. The most obvious differences in results due to the influence of the size of the sensor can be seen from the level of noise in the photos using a high ISO (> ISO 200). The camera with a small sensor size would produce more noise at high ISO.

Though somehow, there are still advantages of pocket camera with small sensor, namely:

• Its compact size
• Light weight
• ease of use
• A more affordable price

What about picture quality and sharpness?

Apparently, the shooting conditions in the outdoor and sunny weather, it is almost impossible to distinguish the results from a compact camera or DSLR. More surprising yet, the images that we see on camera affected barely used. Ken Rockwell article below can serve as a reference:Your Camera Doesn't Matter and A $25 vs. a $5,000 Camera

In fact, production and market demand for compact camera / pocket remains larger than a DSLR camera.

How to Customize White Balance DSLR Camera

How to Customize White Balance DSLR Camera - This question will arise if we would shoot with complex lighting. Is the photographer able to overcome this? This post is a continuation of the post White Balance in Photography.

Some cameras, especially SLR and prosumer, provides manual white balance setting. Manual settings are the most accurate if we are confused by our light source color temperature. This usually occurs in a photo shoot with a more complex light sources (more than one type of color temperature). So the custom White Balance is the right way to solve this complex lighting.

Here's how to customize white balance correctly:

• Look for the white paper, white shirt, white walls, or any other with white color. If the white stuff is not available, you can use the gray matter.

• Place the paper or something white / gray so that lighted by the complex light where you will be photographing. Position the camera so that the paper fills the entire frame photos. (see picture above)

• Set White Balance in custom or manual mode, set the focus in manual focus position, then take a metering. Keep impartial exposure (not under but not over-exposure). Then photograph paper or object. The camera will detect the white and store the temperature, confirmation will appear on the camera's LCD screen when the settings are OK.

• The next step is to put a picture as the standard for white balance setting:

1. Canon camera settings (Canon 60D):

• Press the Menu button, use the Main Dial to lead to the Shooting Menu tab. Highlight Custom White Balance, and then press Set.
• Use the Quick Control Dial, highlight the photo you just took, press Set and then Ok.

2. Nikon camera settings (Nikon D3100): 

• Search White Balance menu. Select the Preset Manual.
• Select the Use Photo. It would appear that you have a recent photo taken. Select Image Select, then Ok.

An easier way is to use an accurate and additional accessories called expodisc or kenko, prices range from US$80 to US$150.

White Balance in Photography

White balance in Photography - is a crucial aspect in the world of photography and the effect on the final image. The camera is actually not really recognize colors. Displayed by the camera is how different frequencies of light reflected from an object to a different frequency of light that becomes the standard of comparison. An understanding of the process of color reproduction is very important in photography that require a high level of color accuracy, for example in product photos, fabric color, light graphics, etc..

Auto White Balance

Color 'white' was chosen as the standard comparator because it is a neutral color. In the full-frequency lighting conditions, the white color will reflect all light frequencies, so the white object is an object that reflects light with the highest intensity. But because it is a neutral, white would be red when illuminated by a red light, it looks blue in the light blue, and so on. Under these conditions, the Auto White Balance on the camera set up to recognize 'the reflection of the object with the highest intensity' and use it as a standard color 'white' to do color correction.

As a result, in certain conditions, the camera can reproduce wrong colors because there is no white object on the object captured. In this condition the required precision of the photographer to help the camera do color correction, but not in sunset/sunrise photography for example.

(Photo source: www.hootphotography.com)

White Balance Setting

Each camera has a different way of setting, so you should refer to the manual if it has not so far found a way. If you are still confused, use the auto white balance mode. The camera may not always be right, but at least more true.

Here are presets that are normally available on any compact cameras:

• Auto - the camera will guess the color temperature based program planted by the camera manufacturer. You can use it in most situations, but not in every situation. So try to explore to the more tricky lights.
• Daylight / Sunny - usually with the symbol of the sun, use while in the sun. Not all cameras have this white balance preset, because it is almost the same as the normal White Balance.
• Cloudy - symbolized by the cloud, use when shooting in cloudy weather. Usually this presets will generally give a touch more 'warm' than Daylight preset.
• Shade - usually a house or a tree symbol, use when shooting indoors (during the day) or you are in the shadows - not direct sunlight. The light is in shadow (shade) is generally cooler (blue) compared to shooting under direct sunlight, so the settings are a little warm.
• Tungsten/Incadescent - symbolized by the icon of the bulb. Because it is suitable for use when you are shooting indoors with tungsten light sources / incadescent like bulb. In general, these presets will cool color photos.
• Fluorescent - symbolized by the iconic neon lights, use when shooting indoors with fluorescent lighting. In general, these presets will warm color photos.
• Flash - symbols flash, if you use the flash (strobe), use this preset. The light generated by a camera flash can be quite 'cool', so this arrangement will warm colors on the photo.
• Custom - This will be discussed in the next post.

A summary of the description you can see above table.

Kelvin White Balance

Kelvin White Balance usually found on professional DSLR cameras. Basically, preset white balance are based on a temperature difference of each color of light. At Kelvin White Balance presets determined from an understanding of physics that objects with a certain temperature will emit light with a certain frequency as well. Solar light emitted by an object with a temperature of 5500K. Fluorescent light has a temperature of 4000K, 3000K incandescent lamp.
 

(Photo source: www.berkelphoto.com)

Error in degrees Kelvin settings will produce the wrong color. The benchmarks are:

• If the images produced bluer mean temperature setting is too low.
• If the images produced yellowish, then setting the temperature too high.

Types of Camera Lenses

As of today, there are many types of camera lenses on the market to meet the needs of photographers, both functional and just a hobby. On the job, a photographer sometimes use more than one lens, for example, a wide-angle lens to take landscape photographs, and a standard lens to photograph detailed houses.

My observation has been circulating in the market 6 types of lenses, namely:

1. Standard zoom lens is a lens with a vario lenses which focal distance can be changed and maximum aperture changes with focus distance. This lens is suitable for a variety of personal documentation purposes. Kit lens 18-55 mm, 18-70 mm, 28-80 mm are including these lens types. Because of crude quality, many people are looking for better quality. For example: for a wider zoom range to choose from 18-105 mm, 28-135 mm, 28-200 mm, and so on. For more sharpness normally used Tamron 17-50 mm or Carl Zeiss 16-80 mm.

2. Prime lens have a fixed focal distance so that have the best quality and sharpness, but the photographers should take a lot of foot-steps to adjust the composition and proportions of the photos. Lenses of this type include 50 mm f/1.8. Alternatively, for example, 50 mm f/1.4, 50 mm f/1.2, 85 mm f/3.5, 135 mm f / 4, and so on.

3. Wide lens is a lens with a shorter focal length to obtain the space of view (FOV - Field Of View) wider. Lenses that are of this type, including the 10-22 mm, 11-18, etc. Another development is the fish-eye lens, such as Samyang 8 mm.

4. Fast lens is a lens with a wide aperture. The lens has a number of aperture f/2.8, f / 2, f/1.8 or smaller. The advantage, with a wide aperture, the shutter speed can be obtained higher. That's why it earned the nickname fast lens. The side effects of a wide aperture is lens blur or bokeh due to narrow DoF (Depth of Field).

5. Macro lens is a lens that has a special construction that allows for photographs of objects from a short distance (50 cm or less). True macro lens has a 1:1 magnification capability, while the specifications that widely used are 100 mm f/2.8 Macro, 50 mm f/2.8 macro, and so on. However, 3rd party lens manufacturers such as Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina develop vario lens with 1:4 macro capability, 1:5 or 1:7, such as the Tamron 18-200 Di II LD Aspherical Macro which has a minimum object distance of 45 cm with a magnification of 1:4.

6. Super telephoto lens is a lens with a focal length above 180 mm, for example 100-400 mm, 170-500 mm, and so on. The lens type is suitable for shooting sports, wildlife, bird watching, and other objects that do not allow photographers approach the object directly.

Apart from the focus distance and aperture, note also the additional features on the lens that will provide convenience (with prices to match), including:

• Motor high quality lens that is more responsive, thus ensuring sharpness of moving objects. Lenses of this type usually has a special code that is different from any manufacturer, such as SSM (Super Sonic Motor), HSM (High Speed Motor), DX, SAM, etc.

• Image stabilizer is a feature that allows you to absorb shocks in a photo shoot with a low speed. This feature also has a different code, such as IS (Image Stabilizer) in the canon, VR (Vibration Reduction) in Nikon, SSS (Super Steady Shoot) on Sony, etc.

• Coating (optical lens coating chemicals) is an important factor because the response of a digital sensor to light different from the reaction to the film. Problems with the coating can cause flare, chromatic aberration (CA), ghosting, etc.. Digital lenses typically have several layers that are marked MC (multi-coated) which in general has a better performance than the old lenses are still single coating.

• Aspheric lens is a construction containing aspheric lens elements and serves to reduce the refraction spherical aberration caused by the shape of a convex lens.

• Low Dispersion is a minimal dispersion (spread) of light of optical element, so that the intensity of light reaching the sensor becomes higher and obtain more details.

Maximize Your Kit Lens

Maximize Your Kit Lens - because lens is the most important camera equipment. A good lens in well maintained will certainly last a long time and its age will exceed the camera body, which is some opinions advise that invest in the lens, and not on the camera body.
 

Usually when you first bought a 'real' camera (SLR camera) will certainly get a kit (default) lens, for example, Canon cameras with Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS II lens. Most kit lenses cheaper price, because it is considered to be one set of producers outstanding camera affordable to consumers and can compete in the market. With the kit lens does not mean you can not be creative in photography. Never mind what the people said, lens kit you have now is the most appropriate for you to start creating your photography style. Especially if your financial situation has not been possible to buy a better lens. To inspire your activities, you can see pictures of the photographers shots through google search engine with keywords 'kit lens photography'.

Now let's discuss how to maximize your kit lens. Kit lenses usually have focal lengths of 18-55mm. So here occurs combined 18mm lens and 55mm lens into one. Lens with a focal length of 18mm is a medium wide-angle lens that suitable for landscape, architecture and the environment photography, while a lens with a focal length of 55mm is a short telephoto lens that suitable to compress the perspective and for portrait or detail photography.

The above statement means there are many opportunities that you can exploit its focal length between 18 and 55mm, doesn't it? You can study the behavior of each focal length in the range. The lens is the 'eye' of the camera system, and your photos will be experiences in increasing your knowledge to know the character of each focal length.

Some of kit lens has other very useful features, namely image stabilizer. In the Canon lens is called Image Stabiliser (IS) and Nikon is called Vibration Reduction (VR). However, some cameras sometimes already have this feature. This feature allows us to take pictures with a low shutter speed, which means you can shoot without a tripod or a buffer at a focal length of 18mm and a shutter speed of 1/4 or even 1/2detik and produces sharp images. This feature is very useful when we are shooting in low-light atmosphere, and of course will greatly facilitate shooting in the daylight and evening. 

Lacks of Kit Lens
After a time you are using the kit lens, will certainly encounter some limitations. It's not the absolute poor, but a sign that you have been at a stage where you really need another lens to produce better pictures anyway. Here are some of the limitations of the kit lens:

Focal Length: you will feel that you are on the 18mm kit lens was not wide, of course you need a shorter focal length so that can produce more dramatic. In this condition, you can begin to consider purchasing a new wide-angel lens.
On the other hand, if 55mm focal length does not gives you the distance that you want on the subject, then you really need a telephoto lens. Usually if you experience or if you like photographing wildlife or sports.

Autofocus: Autofocus on the kit lens tends to be slow and a little bit noisy compared lenses are more expensive, if the performance of the kit lens autofocus hinder you, maybe it's time to upgrade.

Aperture: The kit lens is a lens that is 'slow'. This lens does not have a wide maximum aperture. The reason is simple: The wider the maximum aperture, the greater the lens body, and this will lead to even more need for the lens body, and it means also increase the cost of production. Most kit lens has a maximum width that is small to reduce the market price.

Maximum aperture at 55mm focal length at most kit lenses are f/5.6, if it is less wide, you can buy a zoom lens that cover the same focal length with maximum aperture of f/4 or f/2.8, or 50mm prime / fix lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 or more. A wider aperture on the lens is really going to help you to take pictures in low light conditions or be creative with narrow depth-of-field.

Quality of Lens Body: If you want to test the resilience of the body lens or shooting in bad weather conditions, then of course you'll need a lens that is built better than the kit lens. The more expensive lenses usually have a body and a metal mounting and can be used in bad weather (rain, snow).

Why Golden Hour?

Why Golden Hour? As a continuation of previous post, this post will discuss why golden hour is very long-awaited by photographers. This is due, the sun gives an amazing light effects on each photo snap which make photographers more creative.

Here are some of the reasons photographers look for sunny golden hour:

Photo courtesy of http://365raysofsunshine.blogspot.com

Gorgeous warm light: It can just make your subjects glow.

Photo courtesy of http://aubreyrd.com

Silhouettes: Shoot into the sun and your subjects will be amazing silhouettes.

Photo courtesy of http://photoble.com

Lens flare: another possibility with shooting into the sun is lens flare which can add atmosphere to your shots when used in moderation.

Photo courtesy of http://www.digital-photography-school.com

Indoor photography: If you have a window or open doorway where the light get in through, you can make beautiful indoor photos too. So golden hour need not just be an outdoor thing.

Photo courtesy of http://instantfundas.com

Moody Clouds: The light in this time also hits the sky and landscape around your subject and they create mood and atmosphere in your shots.

Photo courtesy of http://xaxor.com

Black and White Possibilities: Monochromatic? Who's afraid! Just do it!

Photo courtesy of http://josiemarancosmetics.typepad.com

Rims of Light: It’s particularly good through hair, when you shoot with the sun behind your subject, you create rims of light around them which accentuate features.

Photo courtesy of http://lifecycl.es

Shadows: You can play with your subject's shadow by shooting at certain angles.


Do you have any experience with the golden hour in addition to what I mentioned above?

Canon PowerShot N

Canon PowerShot N - Along with Fuji will launch new products at the Consumer Electronic Show Las Vegas, January 2013, Canon also launched its new product. Fuji launch its mirrorless cameras, Fujifilm X100s, while Canon launch pocket cameras, PowerShot N.

This time Canon introduced a super tiny pocket cameras with approximately 7x6x3 cm dimensions making it easy to pocket in shirt or pants i.e. easy to carry wherever you go. Because of its small size Canon gives the tagline "capture every moment in your life".

PowerShot N bears a CMOSplus sensor with resolution of 12 megapixels and has ISO capabilities up to 6400. With a 2.8-inch capacitive LCD display of precision and its swivel allows us when shooting from difficult angles. PowerShot N equipped with 28mm f/3-5.9 lens that has an optical zoom up to 8x.

With a pocket camera sales trend down due to attacked by advanced smartphone camera, Canon just back to basics by making the camera simple and small, but can meet the needs of everyday moments photographed.

Another advantage is the PowerShot N equipped with wi-fi, so we can directly upload the photos to wherever we want. Reported PowerShot N will begin to circulate on the market in April 2013 with prices ranging from US$ 300.

Fujifilm X100s, Newcomer Mirrorless Camera

Fuji announced the launch of a permanent lens mirrorless retro style camera, Fujifilm X100s, today, January 7, 2013. This camera is the successor of the X100 and do some repairs and improvements of the previous generation. The permanent lens here means, this camera do not equip with interchangeable lens.

Generation predecessor, X100, sold quite well in the world among pro and amateur photographers who are enthusiastic with the control layout, the quality of the resulting image, the quality of the lens carries (Fujinon 23mm f / 2), hybrid viewfinder (optical and electronic viewfinder) is offered and retro style itself. But this camera has one major drawback, autofocus is quite slow.
 

Therefore, Fuji introduced changes to improve autofocus performance. The result is, Fuji claims that the X100s has the fastest autofocus in the world for APSC camera class with a permanent lens with focus lock time 0.08 seconds. One more additional feature is the focus peaking when we use manual focus. Focus peaking is a kind of confirmation of focus lock introduced by Sony in mirrorless camera (see examples here focus peaking). Fuji also update the sensor used. X100s using APSC sensor C-MOS X-Trans II 16.3MP resolution, which claimed fuji able to produce images with the image quality is not inferior to a full frame sensor.

Pricing and availability are still unknown, but Fuji will openly flaunt this camera at the CES show in Las Vegas in three days.

Specifications Fujifilm X100s

Here are some key specifications of this camera:

• 16.3 megapixel APS-C X-Trans CMOS II sensor
• EXR Processor II
• High Definition Hybrid Viewfinder (OVF / EVF)
• FUJINON 23mm f/2 lens
• Intelligent Hybrid AF (with the world’s fastest AF speed of 0.08 secs)
• Start-up time of 0.5 secs (*4)
• Shutter time lag of 0.01 secs
• Shooting interval of 0.5 secs
• High-contrast and wide viewing-angle 2.8-inch Premium Clear LCD (460K dots)
• Super Intelligent Flash
• Burst shooting rate of up to 6 frames per second at full resolution (max. 29 frames)
• Focus Peak Highlight function
• Digital Split Image display
• Artistic filters
• Full HD 1080p movie recording (60fps / 30fps)

Canon 5D Mark II "Retired"

Canon 5D Mark II "retired" - Yes, Canon Japan has officially stopped production Canon 5D Mark II as of the date of December 24, 2012 and put it into 'Old Products List'. This marks the official end of the life of these cameras.

At launching, September 2008, this camera has a simple purpose: as a successor to the Canon 5D camera. The camera is regarded as one of the most important camera Canon, because bears some tantalizing features, among others:

• The high resolution camera with a full frame sensor cheapest in its time. With a resolution of 21 MP, Nikon D3X compared with it cost 3 times more expensive.
• Its the first DSLR camera that has the ability to record 1080p HD video quality. Nowadays, DSLR cameras with such capabilities are common, but when it is a breakthrough.
• Once the best-selling cameras, while Canon announces the launch of the Canon 5D Mark III as the more recent edition, 5D Mark II camera hasn't been discontinued yet, just lowered the price.

For those of you who are looking for full frame DSLR cameras, some of the cheapest way is to buy a new camera Canon 6D or Nikon D600 (other than entrance to the used camera market of course), but with an important title it bears, the Canon 5D Mark II still deserve to be considered along it still availables in the shop window.

Here are some of the reviews on this camera from famous reviewer:

1. "DP Review" (dpreview.com) gave badge "Highly Recommended to Canon 5D Mark II".
2. "Imaging Resources" (imaging-resource.com) conclude: “High quality is one thing, but being a camera that can deliver high quality over a wide range of lighting conditions and different ISO settings is what makes the Canon 5D Mark II such a compelling choice”.

Goodbye, Eos 5D Mark II!