Tips on Buying Used Lens

Tips on Buying Used Lens - After you read guide to buy a DSLR camera lenses on this post and this post, one time you need a lens, but the financial situation is not enough to buy a new lens, so the solution is you have to look for second hand lenses. Excess buy second-hand lens is the price is cheaper than a new lens, but you should be careful before buying, so that your savings are not worth it.

Here are tips before you buy a second-hand lens:

1. Determine the required camera facility, type and brand of lenses that fit within the desired range of the available budget. To get an idea of price ranges, contact some camera stores over the phone.


2. Go to store lens, try a new lens, watch AF ring and zoom ring. some lenses rotate AF ring as it searches for its focus, this will affect the use of circular polarize filter (CPL). As you understand the conditions of the new lens, you will be expected to get a reference of comparison to the used lens.


3. Make sure you try first lens you want to buy. Make sure the autofocus-motor works smoothly (if the lens autofocus)


4. Check also part of the lens, do not get any scratches, dewy, or fungi.


5. Note the bolt on the outside and inside of the lens, if the bolt is not good, it means that the lens has been opened before.


6. For conditions inside the lens, bring a small flashlight to see it, either from the front or from the rear, notice the dust on the inside of the lens, if it can be tolerated or not.


7. Try to put the lens on the camera for checking the DOF (depth of field), use a sheet of newspaper, put the paper on a flat surface, take the photo paper at an angle of about 40 degrees. focus on one word, e.g. the word "lens-kit", see the results, if the word "lens-kit" clearer than the surrounding words, means the lens is still in good condition, but these pictures could show the wrong focus sharp if not the word "lens-kit" is. This checking is very useful especially for a lens with a large aperture specifications, such as f/2.8 aperture or below, and make sure all lenses functions running properly.


8. Check that the lens aperture setting close fit in the shooting. Go to the back of the camera, set in Bulb mode, and press the shutter. Perform this test on the entire range of the lens aperture.


9. Avoid lens with a zoom or focusing mechanism falters, too hard, or too loose.


10. Inspect the filter thread on the front of the lens, and make sure there is no damage or jam. When in doubt, do a test by installing a filter on the lens.


11. Avoid buying lenses online from an individual seller you do not know very well, because it's been a lot of fraud. Also avoid to transfer a down payment or pay in full with the promise of the lens will be shipped the same day, except to an online thrift shop that you know well.


12. Also make sure you receive a receipt from the seller for warranty claims, if any, and also to make sure that the lens you buy is not illegal.

Consider Before Buying Digital SLR Camera Part 2

Consider Before Buying Digital SLR Camera Part 2 - After you read non-technical considerations before buying a DSLR camera on previous post, now I try to discuss technical considerations. Considerations in choosing a DSLR camera can be very different from the pick pocket camera. This difference is caused among others by:

1. DSLR is a system that can be customized according the specific needs of the owner, is very different from a pocket camera that is all in.

2. The difference in lens technology, sensors, image processors and operating the buttons on each camera, which in turn distinguishing character results.

3. Almost all compact cameras use CCD sensor size 1/2.5" Sony products, while the DSLR has plenty of options other than CCD technology, such as:

• Canon-developed CMOS (and later also used by Nikon)
• NMOS used by Olympus

It also has sensors with different physical sizes, namely:

• Full-frame, used for high-end camera Pro
• APS-C, used in camera entry level and semi-pro
• 4/3, used by Olympus and Panasonic.

4. Availability accessories & supplies in addition to body & lens.

The availability of equipment and accessories can be an important consideration. Buying a DSLR is basically buying a system. Once you buy it, the system will 'lock' you always use supplies and accessories that are compatible with.

In this case, I think Canon and Nikon have the advantage because - as an old player who leads the market - is a lot of 3rd party accessories available on the market, for example:

• Lens: Sigma, Tamron, Tokina
• Flash: Nissin, Metz
• Battery grip: different types of brands.

Certainly in terms of accessories, the lens becomes a major consideration (learn before buying lens here and here). And it does not mean other brand cameras, in addition to Canon and Nikon, have no excess. Some of the advantages to be noted are:

• Sony can use the Carl-Zeiss and Minolta lens.
• Olympus has an advantage in dynamic range and color saturation in addition to innovative technologies.
• Pentax can use the many old lenses that have been proven sharpness & quality.

However, if you want to pursue photography, you should pay attention to the system, buy a DSLR camera is to buy a system. Especially if you are experienced and have the equipment to one brand. The benchmarks that you should consider are:

• Technology will continue to evolve. Today's sophisticated body, in a few years will be out of date.

• The lens has a longer lifespan than the body.

• Ability to operate a photographer, sensitivity of capturing moments and technical ability are more important than the pursuit of technological development.

DSLR Lens Buying Guide - Part 1

DSLR lens buying guide part 1 - is the answer the question "Which lens should I buy?" after we know the types of DSLR lenses. This post will discuss some of the factors into consideration when buying a DSLR Lenses. Each of the features below will be different in each lens.
 

Lens Speed

Lens Speed or how fast a lens is actually closely related to the maximum aperture is owned by the lens. Aperture is the size of the lens opening when the shutter button is pressed (or how much light enters the camera). Aperture is denoted by F (f-stop).

The smaller number makes wider aperture, and there will be more light coming in at one time. This means the shutter speed becomes faster. Lens speed should you know due to:

• Lens "fast" with a maximum aperture of f/1.4 allows you to shoot in relatively dark place better than the lens has a maximum aperture of f / 4 or f/5.6, but that does not mean a slower lens is not good.

• The "fast" lens allows you to retrieve the moving object without getting motion blur.

• Lens "fast" allows you to get the depth of field of thinner / narrower. This means that when you focus on a subject in the foreground the background will be blurry or out of focus. Having a lens 'fast' of course means it is possible to get focusing a little more 'tricky', given the depth of field is used very thin / narrow. For example, when photographing portrait of a face with f/1.4 aperture and focus on the eyes, then most likely you will find the nose a little out of focus.

• The 'fast' lens is usually more expensive than a slower lens.

• The faster lenses would be helpful in terms of flash photography in recording or taking ambient light.

As a reference:

• Lens speed aperture lens with f / 4 is usually good for general purpose photography with good lighting conditions
• f/5.6 requires good lighting or features image stabilization (IS / VR)
• If you shoot indoor without flash, then at least use a lens with f/2.8, and
• If you are shooting indoor sports then at least use f/2.0 or 'faster'.

Focal Length

Focal length is length of the lens. This measurement is the distance between the middle of the optical lens to the focal point on the camera sensor. What you should know is that the focal length of a lens inform you when photographing subjects how much will be enlarged. Focal Length also inform the angle of view.

Focus Distance
This is the measurement between the end of the lens with the closest point of object. This is useful when shooting in macro or close-up photography, because this type of photography requires a very close distance of the object to end of the lens.

Image Stabilization

This feature is useful for minimizing vibration or shaking the camera (Camera Shake). Most DSLR lenses is now equipped with image stabilization (the Canon lens known as IS, and the Nikon lens is known as VR).

Camera Shake is a movement that occurs when the shutter is opened. This incident had a greater impact on the photos when we use slow speed, no tripod, and when use a lens with a longer focal length.

Image Stabilization helps photographers reduce camera shake at low light levels, but it does not freeze the moving subject. Basically IS allows us to take photos at lower shutter speed which the camera aperture open a little longer.

IS features mean additional cost on a lens, so you need a consideration of whether the activity of shooting with lenses that require this feature or not. Example: Do you frequently shoot in low light conditions using a long focal length without a tripod?

Budget

Considerations in buying lenses when going to upgrade is the cost. Most people agree that "we get what we pay", and we prefer to upgrade the lens than replace the camera body (depending on conditions). A little wary of the 'kit lens', in many circumstances these lenses are good, but we think it would be better if we buy only the camera body and then choose a better lens than the kit.

Brand

There are so many opinions say that to produce great photos should use a lens with the same brand with the camera compared to using cheaper third party lenses. In our opinion, for the first time try to find the same brand lens with the camera body, if you can not find try to find the lens of a third party. The fact is that every lens manufacturer has produced good and less good lenses that have been circulating in the market. Do your research before buying a lens through websites and forums that provide a review and comparison.

To be continued...here

Types of Camera Lenses

As of today, there are many types of camera lenses on the market to meet the needs of photographers, both functional and just a hobby. On the job, a photographer sometimes use more than one lens, for example, a wide-angle lens to take landscape photographs, and a standard lens to photograph detailed houses.

My observation has been circulating in the market 6 types of lenses, namely:

1. Standard zoom lens is a lens with a vario lenses which focal distance can be changed and maximum aperture changes with focus distance. This lens is suitable for a variety of personal documentation purposes. Kit lens 18-55 mm, 18-70 mm, 28-80 mm are including these lens types. Because of crude quality, many people are looking for better quality. For example: for a wider zoom range to choose from 18-105 mm, 28-135 mm, 28-200 mm, and so on. For more sharpness normally used Tamron 17-50 mm or Carl Zeiss 16-80 mm.

2. Prime lens have a fixed focal distance so that have the best quality and sharpness, but the photographers should take a lot of foot-steps to adjust the composition and proportions of the photos. Lenses of this type include 50 mm f/1.8. Alternatively, for example, 50 mm f/1.4, 50 mm f/1.2, 85 mm f/3.5, 135 mm f / 4, and so on.

3. Wide lens is a lens with a shorter focal length to obtain the space of view (FOV - Field Of View) wider. Lenses that are of this type, including the 10-22 mm, 11-18, etc. Another development is the fish-eye lens, such as Samyang 8 mm.

4. Fast lens is a lens with a wide aperture. The lens has a number of aperture f/2.8, f / 2, f/1.8 or smaller. The advantage, with a wide aperture, the shutter speed can be obtained higher. That's why it earned the nickname fast lens. The side effects of a wide aperture is lens blur or bokeh due to narrow DoF (Depth of Field).

5. Macro lens is a lens that has a special construction that allows for photographs of objects from a short distance (50 cm or less). True macro lens has a 1:1 magnification capability, while the specifications that widely used are 100 mm f/2.8 Macro, 50 mm f/2.8 macro, and so on. However, 3rd party lens manufacturers such as Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina develop vario lens with 1:4 macro capability, 1:5 or 1:7, such as the Tamron 18-200 Di II LD Aspherical Macro which has a minimum object distance of 45 cm with a magnification of 1:4.

6. Super telephoto lens is a lens with a focal length above 180 mm, for example 100-400 mm, 170-500 mm, and so on. The lens type is suitable for shooting sports, wildlife, bird watching, and other objects that do not allow photographers approach the object directly.

Apart from the focus distance and aperture, note also the additional features on the lens that will provide convenience (with prices to match), including:

• Motor high quality lens that is more responsive, thus ensuring sharpness of moving objects. Lenses of this type usually has a special code that is different from any manufacturer, such as SSM (Super Sonic Motor), HSM (High Speed Motor), DX, SAM, etc.

• Image stabilizer is a feature that allows you to absorb shocks in a photo shoot with a low speed. This feature also has a different code, such as IS (Image Stabilizer) in the canon, VR (Vibration Reduction) in Nikon, SSS (Super Steady Shoot) on Sony, etc.

• Coating (optical lens coating chemicals) is an important factor because the response of a digital sensor to light different from the reaction to the film. Problems with the coating can cause flare, chromatic aberration (CA), ghosting, etc.. Digital lenses typically have several layers that are marked MC (multi-coated) which in general has a better performance than the old lenses are still single coating.

• Aspheric lens is a construction containing aspheric lens elements and serves to reduce the refraction spherical aberration caused by the shape of a convex lens.

• Low Dispersion is a minimal dispersion (spread) of light of optical element, so that the intensity of light reaching the sensor becomes higher and obtain more details.

Maximize Your Kit Lens

Maximize Your Kit Lens - because lens is the most important camera equipment. A good lens in well maintained will certainly last a long time and its age will exceed the camera body, which is some opinions advise that invest in the lens, and not on the camera body.
 

Usually when you first bought a 'real' camera (SLR camera) will certainly get a kit (default) lens, for example, Canon cameras with Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS II lens. Most kit lenses cheaper price, because it is considered to be one set of producers outstanding camera affordable to consumers and can compete in the market. With the kit lens does not mean you can not be creative in photography. Never mind what the people said, lens kit you have now is the most appropriate for you to start creating your photography style. Especially if your financial situation has not been possible to buy a better lens. To inspire your activities, you can see pictures of the photographers shots through google search engine with keywords 'kit lens photography'.

Now let's discuss how to maximize your kit lens. Kit lenses usually have focal lengths of 18-55mm. So here occurs combined 18mm lens and 55mm lens into one. Lens with a focal length of 18mm is a medium wide-angle lens that suitable for landscape, architecture and the environment photography, while a lens with a focal length of 55mm is a short telephoto lens that suitable to compress the perspective and for portrait or detail photography.

The above statement means there are many opportunities that you can exploit its focal length between 18 and 55mm, doesn't it? You can study the behavior of each focal length in the range. The lens is the 'eye' of the camera system, and your photos will be experiences in increasing your knowledge to know the character of each focal length.

Some of kit lens has other very useful features, namely image stabilizer. In the Canon lens is called Image Stabiliser (IS) and Nikon is called Vibration Reduction (VR). However, some cameras sometimes already have this feature. This feature allows us to take pictures with a low shutter speed, which means you can shoot without a tripod or a buffer at a focal length of 18mm and a shutter speed of 1/4 or even 1/2detik and produces sharp images. This feature is very useful when we are shooting in low-light atmosphere, and of course will greatly facilitate shooting in the daylight and evening. 

Lacks of Kit Lens
After a time you are using the kit lens, will certainly encounter some limitations. It's not the absolute poor, but a sign that you have been at a stage where you really need another lens to produce better pictures anyway. Here are some of the limitations of the kit lens:

Focal Length: you will feel that you are on the 18mm kit lens was not wide, of course you need a shorter focal length so that can produce more dramatic. In this condition, you can begin to consider purchasing a new wide-angel lens.
On the other hand, if 55mm focal length does not gives you the distance that you want on the subject, then you really need a telephoto lens. Usually if you experience or if you like photographing wildlife or sports.

Autofocus: Autofocus on the kit lens tends to be slow and a little bit noisy compared lenses are more expensive, if the performance of the kit lens autofocus hinder you, maybe it's time to upgrade.

Aperture: The kit lens is a lens that is 'slow'. This lens does not have a wide maximum aperture. The reason is simple: The wider the maximum aperture, the greater the lens body, and this will lead to even more need for the lens body, and it means also increase the cost of production. Most kit lens has a maximum width that is small to reduce the market price.

Maximum aperture at 55mm focal length at most kit lenses are f/5.6, if it is less wide, you can buy a zoom lens that cover the same focal length with maximum aperture of f/4 or f/2.8, or 50mm prime / fix lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 or more. A wider aperture on the lens is really going to help you to take pictures in low light conditions or be creative with narrow depth-of-field.

Quality of Lens Body: If you want to test the resilience of the body lens or shooting in bad weather conditions, then of course you'll need a lens that is built better than the kit lens. The more expensive lenses usually have a body and a metal mounting and can be used in bad weather (rain, snow).

Tips to Change Your DSLR Lens

Change DSLR Lens - One benefit of having DSLR camera is the interchangeable lens. It means with only one camera body we can use many kind of lenses to develop creativity in photography. This post I inform you how to fast and save change your DSLR lens.

Sensor camera is very sensitive with dust or micro water splash. Dirt can make some noise on the photos (See photo below), so you must change your lens safely. Care your sensor camera especially if you are in outdoor activity.

Following the fast change DSLR lens safely:

• Garland camera strap in your neck. Point camera to face downward.
• Set front-cap lens will be changed correctly.
• Rotate the lens counter clockwise while pressing lens-lock button.
• Rotate lens until slacks, but doesn't really getting-out of camera.
• Take lens will be attached, open cover lens back, and put it at the easy to reach place. Do this with one hand whereas the other hand holds the lens in camera.
• Discharge lens from camera and lets camera still face downward.
• Now attach new lens swiftly (attention to marking point, marking point camera and marking point lens must be paralleled) then turn new lens clockwise until correctly locked.
• Attached lens-back cover at old lens and keep old lens into camera bag.

Extra tips:
Activate sensor cleaning feature in your camera to avoid or reduce your photos noised.
Avoid change your lens in the windy air and or in the beach.