Tips to Avoid General Fault in Photography

Tips to Avoid General Fault in Photography - In practice we usually see the results of our photos we did not expect, such as blurred images, photo speckled dark, or perhaps the subjects of our photos with red eyes. This post will provide information on how to avoid the common mistakes encountered in photography that produces images that we did not expect.

Reducing Shocks in Camera
 

Camera shake is caused by a combination of hand movements photographer or inability to keep the camera in a stationary or fixed condition, shutter speed and focus lens (focal length) long so that it will produce images that are blurry or out of focus. The focal length of the lens when combined with a slow shutter speed will create a situation in which the shutter speed is too slow to freeze the image.

Camera shake can be prevented by using a tripod, hold the camera with the right position or raise the shutter speed to a value greater than the focal length (focal length). For example, if the same focal length to 100mm so its shutter speed should be set to 1/100 sec or faster.

Note: Some lenses have image stabilizing features (eg IS Image Stabilizer on Canon lenses), which allows the photographer to take pictures with the shutter speed value is smaller than the focal length of the lens.

Eliminate the Red-eye Effect
 

Red-eye effect caused by the reflection of the flash directly behind the retina subjects we photograph. Basically, since most of the built-in flash which made ??only one or two inches from the lens, flash sends light that bounces off the back of the human retina, and reflects directly back into the camera lens. Reflections are seen in the image as red, thus creating a red eye effect. Blue-eyed people are very prone to red-eye phenomenon because it has less pigment to absorb light.

There are several ways you can do to minimize or eliminate red eye in pictures:

1. Red eye reduction feature
 

Some cameras have a red eye reduction feature that forces objects iris shrink before the picture is taken. Almost all digital cameras have this feature. This feature causes the flash to light up twice in two micro bursts. The first little flash to cause your subject's the pupil to contract and shrink, which reduces the amount of retina affected by the flash. When the second flash is triggered, contracted retina produces almost no visible red-eye effect.
The main problem with this method is that it often forcing objects to deliberately turn a blind eye before the picture is taken and not always completely eliminate red eye effect.

2. External flash
 

External flash hot-shoe mounted on the camera, the direction can be changed in the direction of the ceiling, or even use it without mounting the camera body and steer a little to the right or left of your subject.

3. Post production
If the images have been exposed to the red-eye effect, the photographer also still be able to eliminate it, using computer software such as Photoshop or the other, which will be discussed in upcoming posts.

Reducing Digital Noise
Digital noise is the effect polka dots (spots) on the image for long exposures or high ISO images with the lack of lighting situations.
Digital noise can be reduced by using the ISO setting between 100 and 400. Setting ISO 400 will give you more exposure but ISO 400 reduces digital noise. In anticipation of a long exposure, you need a tripod to freeze the image.
 

Currently DSLR cameras usually have a noise reduction feature, if its noise reduction is turned on it will automatically be activated when taking pictures with long exposures. The negative side of this feature is the camera takes a significant time-lag between taking pictures. One way to avoid this time-lag is to turn off noise reduction feature on the camera, and use the aperture setting noise reduction after transferring images to the computer.

How To Avoid Blurred Photos

How to avoid blur in photos - After my post Tips for Sharp Picture and Some Causes of Blur Photos in previous posts, the following is my post how to avoid a blurred picture. These posts are very related.

There are two main factors causing blurry photo:

1. The shutter speed setting is too slow compared to the focal length

Generally to avoid blurred photos due to hand shake you should use the Shutter Speed reference:

Shutter speed = 1 / focal length

For example, if you use lens with 100mm focal length, your camera shutter speed should be set at 1/100 second or faster.
This reference available to DSLR with full frame sensor. If your camera has cropped sensor (APSC), such as cropped Canon camera uses factor 1.6x, Nikon Sony, and Pentax use factor 1.5x, Olympus and Panasonic use factor 2x.
So if you have Canon DSLR camera with cropped sensor and use 100mm lens, the save minimum shutter speed from blurred due to hand shake is 1/160 second.
The question is "Why longer focal length need faster shutter speed?" Because the longer focal length, the more sensitive sensor to capture the vibe.

2. The object you are photographing moved too fast

So that the shutter speed must also follow the rapid motion of the subject of the photo. For example, to freeze the motion of the person running a basketball player, you need a minimum of 1/500. For dancers and singers, usually 1/200 enough, and to photograph people who do not move 1/60 is usually pretty good.

How to prevent blur

There is technology in cameras and lenses designed to prevent blur. This type of technology is divided into two categories. The first one is in the camera, in the lens the other. The name varies, among other Image Stabilization (IS), Vibration Reduction (VR), Steady Shot (SS), Shake Reduction (SR) Mega OIS, Optical Stabilization (OS) and Vibration Compensation (VC). This technology can help you but can not help in total. For example, once you have to use a 1/200, but with the help of technology, you can use 1/100 or 1/60. This technology can not prevent blur when you are taking photos of people or objects moving quickly.

Another thing that can be used to prevent blur, among others, the camera holding technique and breathing techniques. By holding your breath while taking a picture, and put the body by meeting or leaning on walls, can help reduce the vibration that produces blur.

In addition to those mentioned above, there are still other factors that affect, among other things:

1. Direction of motion of moving subjects: Subjects were moving toward and away from the camera will be easier to freeze than the subject moves from left to right or vice versa.

2. The distance between the camera with a moving subject: The farther the distance, the more easily freeze the subject rather than a subject that is close.

In practice, we often can not use a high shutter speed to freeze the subject of the picture due to dark field conditions. Thus, by using these principles is our advantage.

If we are photographing people or objects approaching us from the front, then we can use the shutter speed a bit more slowly, so photographing subjects that are far from us. But be careful if your subject is near to us or movement from left to right / right to left camera, we need to increase the aperture / shutter speed if you want to freeze the subject movement.

DSLR Lens Buying Guide - Part 1

DSLR lens buying guide part 1 - is the answer the question "Which lens should I buy?" after we know the types of DSLR lenses. This post will discuss some of the factors into consideration when buying a DSLR Lenses. Each of the features below will be different in each lens.
 

Lens Speed

Lens Speed or how fast a lens is actually closely related to the maximum aperture is owned by the lens. Aperture is the size of the lens opening when the shutter button is pressed (or how much light enters the camera). Aperture is denoted by F (f-stop).

The smaller number makes wider aperture, and there will be more light coming in at one time. This means the shutter speed becomes faster. Lens speed should you know due to:

• Lens "fast" with a maximum aperture of f/1.4 allows you to shoot in relatively dark place better than the lens has a maximum aperture of f / 4 or f/5.6, but that does not mean a slower lens is not good.

• The "fast" lens allows you to retrieve the moving object without getting motion blur.

• Lens "fast" allows you to get the depth of field of thinner / narrower. This means that when you focus on a subject in the foreground the background will be blurry or out of focus. Having a lens 'fast' of course means it is possible to get focusing a little more 'tricky', given the depth of field is used very thin / narrow. For example, when photographing portrait of a face with f/1.4 aperture and focus on the eyes, then most likely you will find the nose a little out of focus.

• The 'fast' lens is usually more expensive than a slower lens.

• The faster lenses would be helpful in terms of flash photography in recording or taking ambient light.

As a reference:

• Lens speed aperture lens with f / 4 is usually good for general purpose photography with good lighting conditions
• f/5.6 requires good lighting or features image stabilization (IS / VR)
• If you shoot indoor without flash, then at least use a lens with f/2.8, and
• If you are shooting indoor sports then at least use f/2.0 or 'faster'.

Focal Length

Focal length is length of the lens. This measurement is the distance between the middle of the optical lens to the focal point on the camera sensor. What you should know is that the focal length of a lens inform you when photographing subjects how much will be enlarged. Focal Length also inform the angle of view.

Focus Distance
This is the measurement between the end of the lens with the closest point of object. This is useful when shooting in macro or close-up photography, because this type of photography requires a very close distance of the object to end of the lens.

Image Stabilization

This feature is useful for minimizing vibration or shaking the camera (Camera Shake). Most DSLR lenses is now equipped with image stabilization (the Canon lens known as IS, and the Nikon lens is known as VR).

Camera Shake is a movement that occurs when the shutter is opened. This incident had a greater impact on the photos when we use slow speed, no tripod, and when use a lens with a longer focal length.

Image Stabilization helps photographers reduce camera shake at low light levels, but it does not freeze the moving subject. Basically IS allows us to take photos at lower shutter speed which the camera aperture open a little longer.

IS features mean additional cost on a lens, so you need a consideration of whether the activity of shooting with lenses that require this feature or not. Example: Do you frequently shoot in low light conditions using a long focal length without a tripod?

Budget

Considerations in buying lenses when going to upgrade is the cost. Most people agree that "we get what we pay", and we prefer to upgrade the lens than replace the camera body (depending on conditions). A little wary of the 'kit lens', in many circumstances these lenses are good, but we think it would be better if we buy only the camera body and then choose a better lens than the kit.

Brand

There are so many opinions say that to produce great photos should use a lens with the same brand with the camera compared to using cheaper third party lenses. In our opinion, for the first time try to find the same brand lens with the camera body, if you can not find try to find the lens of a third party. The fact is that every lens manufacturer has produced good and less good lenses that have been circulating in the market. Do your research before buying a lens through websites and forums that provide a review and comparison.

To be continued...here

Maximize Your Kit Lens

Maximize Your Kit Lens - because lens is the most important camera equipment. A good lens in well maintained will certainly last a long time and its age will exceed the camera body, which is some opinions advise that invest in the lens, and not on the camera body.
 

Usually when you first bought a 'real' camera (SLR camera) will certainly get a kit (default) lens, for example, Canon cameras with Canon EF-S 18-55mm IS II lens. Most kit lenses cheaper price, because it is considered to be one set of producers outstanding camera affordable to consumers and can compete in the market. With the kit lens does not mean you can not be creative in photography. Never mind what the people said, lens kit you have now is the most appropriate for you to start creating your photography style. Especially if your financial situation has not been possible to buy a better lens. To inspire your activities, you can see pictures of the photographers shots through google search engine with keywords 'kit lens photography'.

Now let's discuss how to maximize your kit lens. Kit lenses usually have focal lengths of 18-55mm. So here occurs combined 18mm lens and 55mm lens into one. Lens with a focal length of 18mm is a medium wide-angle lens that suitable for landscape, architecture and the environment photography, while a lens with a focal length of 55mm is a short telephoto lens that suitable to compress the perspective and for portrait or detail photography.

The above statement means there are many opportunities that you can exploit its focal length between 18 and 55mm, doesn't it? You can study the behavior of each focal length in the range. The lens is the 'eye' of the camera system, and your photos will be experiences in increasing your knowledge to know the character of each focal length.

Some of kit lens has other very useful features, namely image stabilizer. In the Canon lens is called Image Stabiliser (IS) and Nikon is called Vibration Reduction (VR). However, some cameras sometimes already have this feature. This feature allows us to take pictures with a low shutter speed, which means you can shoot without a tripod or a buffer at a focal length of 18mm and a shutter speed of 1/4 or even 1/2detik and produces sharp images. This feature is very useful when we are shooting in low-light atmosphere, and of course will greatly facilitate shooting in the daylight and evening. 

Lacks of Kit Lens
After a time you are using the kit lens, will certainly encounter some limitations. It's not the absolute poor, but a sign that you have been at a stage where you really need another lens to produce better pictures anyway. Here are some of the limitations of the kit lens:

Focal Length: you will feel that you are on the 18mm kit lens was not wide, of course you need a shorter focal length so that can produce more dramatic. In this condition, you can begin to consider purchasing a new wide-angel lens.
On the other hand, if 55mm focal length does not gives you the distance that you want on the subject, then you really need a telephoto lens. Usually if you experience or if you like photographing wildlife or sports.

Autofocus: Autofocus on the kit lens tends to be slow and a little bit noisy compared lenses are more expensive, if the performance of the kit lens autofocus hinder you, maybe it's time to upgrade.

Aperture: The kit lens is a lens that is 'slow'. This lens does not have a wide maximum aperture. The reason is simple: The wider the maximum aperture, the greater the lens body, and this will lead to even more need for the lens body, and it means also increase the cost of production. Most kit lens has a maximum width that is small to reduce the market price.

Maximum aperture at 55mm focal length at most kit lenses are f/5.6, if it is less wide, you can buy a zoom lens that cover the same focal length with maximum aperture of f/4 or f/2.8, or 50mm prime / fix lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 or more. A wider aperture on the lens is really going to help you to take pictures in low light conditions or be creative with narrow depth-of-field.

Quality of Lens Body: If you want to test the resilience of the body lens or shooting in bad weather conditions, then of course you'll need a lens that is built better than the kit lens. The more expensive lenses usually have a body and a metal mounting and can be used in bad weather (rain, snow).

How To Maximize Your Pocket Camera

How To Maximize Pocket Camera - is useful article to pocket camera users. If you want to change shutter speed and aperture setting to your pocket camera, how to do that? There are only two answers to do that:

1. Upgrade your camera
This is the most ideal answer, i.e buying a digital SLR camera, or at least an advance pocket camera called as prosumer camera. The two kind of cameras give you free manually setting of aperture, shutter speed, ISO and white balance, moreover DSLR camera could be changed its lens according to your requirement. If you have much money this answer is suitable for you. If you have no much money or you don't want to buy DSLR camera at the present time, you should try the next answer.

2. Maximize your pocket camera
Pocket camera is designed for daily photograph. It can give you information about photographic situation and kind of picture you need. Each mode of photography apply special setting to the camera.

Several pocket camera settings to maximize your pocket camera: 

• Adjust White Balance with available light. Improper white balance will produce tonal colors that do not match and sometimes bizarre. 

• Use the appropriate Scene mode. In each pocket cameras usually reserved several scenes to meet your shooting according to lighting situations and motion of an object being photographed.

• Use the Macro mode on an object that is close, without this mode, the object a short distance (less than 50 cm) will blur.

• Make sure the object gets enough light. The role of light is very important because you use low ISO. So get a light as bright as possible, if necessary use a flash or studio mini box.

• If you want to get shallow depth of field (blur background), apply 'spot focus metering' and 'Portrait mode'. The camera will set wide aperture.

• If you want to get deep depth of field (all focused), apply 'Landscape mode', and set 'multi focus metering' the camera will automatically set narrow aperture.

• If you want fast shutter speed, apply 'Sports mode'. The camera assumed that you want to freeze object movement. Its also applied to photograph children activity.

• If you want slow shutter speed, apply 'night mode'. Camera will automatically turn on flash and set high ISO that can make noise to the picture. Turn off flash and set ISO to 100 or 200. You should use tripod or other camera fixation to get sharp and clear pictures, and apply timer to reduce shake effect.

Resume of above settings shows in table below:

And additional tips is to avoid using digital zoom as it will add noise to your photos.

Night Shot Tips

Night Shot Tips is continuation of Low Light Photography tips posting. This posting is talking about setting your camera before you photograph your night moments. Night give us volunteer lighting comes from spot light, vehicle beam, or many others. It could be an artistic picture if we know how to catch the nice moments.

Some camera equipped with 'Night Mode', however sometimes it doesn't give satisfaction. The causes are:

• 'Night Mode' sets higher ISO, so it makes higher noise.
• Wide aperture will make shallow DoF that blooming circular light.
• Shutter speed too fast, so moving light recorded in short time.

So it's required manual settings appropriate to the condition your photo object. The  way setting are:

• Set ISO at 100 or 200 to reduce noise.
• Set aperture at f/8 or higher to get deeper Depth of Field (DoF) and perform star effect of lamp light.
• The shutter speed is set according to the shooting early, typically ranging from 2 seconds or slower according to you need.

 

Another setting is applying 'P Mode', take one picture, see camera setting of the picture. Shift to 'M Mode' set shutter speed with calculating: 1 stop aperture wider is compensated by 1 stop shutter slower.

Additional tips:

• Try to take photograph at 15 to 20 minutes before sunset or 15 to 20 minutes after sunrise.
• You should equip with tripod or hold the camera on the fixed place.
• Apply timer or shutter release (wired or wireless) to avoid shaking camera while shooting.
• When human will be performed in the foreground, apply slow-sync flash.

Low Light Photography

Low Light Photography is photographic tips in minimum of light without flash to get sharp photos. The moments city view, music concert, or party sometimes need to be photographed without flash.

 

Photo courtesy of Grzegorz

Following are Low Light Photography tips:
1. Tripod, is reliable and helpful accessories.
2. No tripod? Exploit the place surrounding you to keep your photos okay, such as lean-on your body to wall, to podium stairway, or to tree. Keep your camera stable.

3. Set aperture as wide as possible of the lens.
4. If above tips have not enough yet, increase your camera ISO to reach shutter speed 1/60 second minimum (new generation cameras still yield low noise photos at ISO setting more than 1000)
5. Activate High ISO Noise Reduction feature of your camera if you apply point 4 above.
6. You can pass point 5, but you can use post production software to reduce the noise. The softwares Noise Ninja, Imagenomic Noiseware, or Nik's Dfine are not so bad to reduce noise. Lightroom 4 has sophisticated noise reduction.
7. Read posting about optimum shutter speed: Xmm focal length has optimum shutter speed over 1/X second. Click here for detail.

How to Photograph Fireworks

How to Photograph Fireworks - Fireworks is one of the events at welcoming the new year party. It commonly done by most of the people around world, but it's good to capture this event, because every year the fireworks form would be different.
Photographing fireworks is not as easy as you might think. But there are tricks to get the picture you expect. Followings are the tricks:

• Do not guess direction fireworks

The difficulty in photographing fireworks is that we do not know where the fireworks will light up. So just point the lens up roughly where fireworks will light up, and set the zoom lens that can cover large areas (standard or kit zoom lens is ideal for this event), so you can shoot fireworks will light up anywhere. Then edit the results in your computer.

• Using tripod is a must

It seems this is mandatory, because we will be using slow shutter speed, 1 second or longer. Using a tripod will ensure it does not happen a shake of the camera in order to obtain sharper results. If you have the shutter release (either wired or wireless) take it and use it. With the shutter release, your eyes will be free to oversee the sky so your chances of obtaining a greater right moment.

• Take advantage of the fixed objects in the composition

It could be a building, monument, or any building that would indicate where the photo was taken. In addition to marking the location, utilization of fixed objects can serve as a frame. See the picture above.

• Use the largest camera resolution

Use the largest image size that can be produced with your camera. This is to support the goals of the two tips above, so when you crop an image, the image that has been cut is still good enough to print large size. Be ideal if the camera has a RAW feature, apply it!

• Turn off autofocus

Because of the general condition of dark and lit fireworks just a moment, autofocus camera can become confused and lose the moment because it is not time to get focused. So you should set the focus on the farthest distance (infinity) then turn off the auto focus and switch to manual focusing. One more thing, do not forget when you change the zoom lens, set the new focus.

• Turn off flash

Usually in the manual setting flash did not turn on. Just to make sure, because in these conditions the flash is useless, the short-range and could even worsen the picture for illuminating unnecessary areas. If using the internal flash, a charging may be a nuisance.

• Exposure Setting Manually

Since we do not know 'where exactly' fireworks will explode, to be a fairly sharp picture in all the range we have gained a 'deep' Depth of Field. Exposure settings that I and also  a lot of photographers used to apply are mentioned in the table above.

An asterisk (*) indicates the settings I tried with a DSLR camera with a small resolution. If you have a DSLR camera more than 10 MP resolution may sharper. Because this setting is opposed to the camera program that the program will compensate the aperture with the shutter speed, so it should be done with manual settings.

• Take photos as much as you can

Do not review too long for their moment will be fast and time is limited, take the picture as much as possible. Moreover, you do not need to buy the celluloid film, do not limit yourself. The more you snap, at least the more good photos to be had. The results can be selected at home.

Happy photographing new year fireworks.