Rule of Third in Photography

Rule of Third in Photography - One of the main factors that distinguish between an impressive photo with a common photo is COMPOSITION or how the object / subject is placed in a photograph. Using the Rule of Thirds is not a fixed rule, but only a simple composition rules or guidelines to improve the composition of your photos.

Rule of Third is the development of symmetry Golden Ratio which has long been known in the art. In the Rule of Third image frame is divided into three vertical sections and three horizontal sections.
 

Four lines with dots between them identify a part or place of the "Point of Interest" and that is certainly where you should put the subject (along the lines or at the intersection) to create balance and impressive photographs. An easy way to remember is: Rule of Thirds avoid placing the subject in the CENTRAL square section.

The concept of the Rule of Thirds contrary to the habits that occur in novice photographers with their photos always put the subject right in the middle of the frame or often called dead center. Rule of the composition is a foundation for the balance of picture elements so that the overall picture looks more impressive. Rule of Thirds naturally guide the audience eyes to the point of "Point of Interest" or "Focal Point", and not to the middle of frame. This rule identifies the Point of Interest (POI).
 

The Principles of Rule of Third

1. Although it should not be strictly correct, the placement of objects in the frame should be adjusted to the subdivision.
2. Try to put the most interesting part of the object on one of the four points of intersection.
3. The most interesting part of the object can be anything, for example: eye, face, natural boundary, the contrast of light and shadow, etc..
4. Not all four points must be filled simultaneously, just one. And elements of a point of interest can be either a human or an inanimate object.

Thus, in applying the rule of third in the photo that you need to consider before push button release are:
1. What is a point of interest (POI) of our pictures. Which part becomes the main point of the most interesting in our photos?
2. Then divide the image in the viewfinder into the intersection as shown above.
3. At what point is a point of interest is to be placed? Select one of the four lines meeting points.

Tips

Cropping is a powerful weapon to get the right composition. Setting composition when shooting will take time and you may miss the moment. It is therefore an object shoot using the highest resolution with the free space around the object rather relieved to be free to do the cropping.
 

Have a nice shots!

Hyperfocal Distance

Hyperfocal Distance - call it a zone of focus - is the distance from the lens to the focal point, which from the focal point to the point of infinite distance (infinity) is sharp all. By using this technique we also get half of the hyperfocal distance point in the direction of the lens take sharp, in terms of photography is called acceptable sharpness.

From the picture above, if we peep from the viewfinder and put focus point at point A, then from the point A to infinity will be entered in the field of DOF (depth of field) . But we also get the sharpness that is half the distance from point A to the lens also sharp. Or in other words, from the point B to infinity will be sharp.

At the time of celluloid camera lens we get "zone of focus" by reading the enclosed space of the aperture used. See the pictures below:
 

If you want to make a landscape photograph with the lens and f16 aperture (smallest aperture), set focus about 6m, the closest foreground focus is about 2.9m. It means from the distance 2.9m to infinity will be sharp focused at f16 aperture.

The main goal of knowing the hyperfocal distance is to get the sharpness wide open from the focal point to the point of infinity in landscape photography. So the point is to find the right focus distance to get the focal plane broadest of foreground to background, because in landscape photography we often include foreground and background in the same photo frame in sharp condition evenly.

Thus, Hyperfocal Distance is a useful feature that is the function of the lens aperture (f stop), distance and focal length.

The use of a narrow aperture (e.g. f11, f16 or f22) is helping this process. This is due to the narrow aperture sharp space tends to expand. However, landscape photography is often even more demanding. Foreground that we use often is no more than 20-30 cm in front of the lens. Besides all the areas in the picture sharpness is very important for landscape photographers, they do not want any area that is not sharp. This requires precise autofocus point selection.

In these cases we use hyperfocal technique. This technique essentially select an object at a certain distance to be the focal point. By selecting an object with a certain distance we "maximize" sharp space available. This technique depends on the type of camera body (i.e. sensor size) that is used, aperture and focal length used.

In these cases we use hyperfocal technique . This technique essentially select an object at a certain distance to be the focal point. By selecting an object with a certain distance we "maximize" sharp space available. This technique depends on the type of body that is used, aperture and focal length used. To calculate you can use DOF Master Calculator . This software is available free of charge either online or on the iPhone and Windows Mobile. And you can make a table according to the device you want to take photography.
 

In the "DOF Master Calculator" you must first enter the "body type" that you use, "aperture" and "focal length". Once you enter this parameter is then seen in the red box no. 1 appears the number "hyperfocal distance". After that we enter the hyperfocal distance to the "subject distance" so "far limit" in the blue box no. 2 to "infinity". If it has not reached the "infinity" increase slightly to reach "infinity". The number "hyperfocal distance" is the distance obtained where we have to do focusing.

"Near limit" in the blue box no.2 is the shortest distance from the lens is still in the category of sharp. While "far limit" is the furthest distance that is still in the category of sharp. Or "zone of focus" were among the "near limit" and "far limit".

Reference to calculate hyperfocal distance can be found in en.wikipedia.org 

Tips:

• Hyperfocal technique is especially needed if we use the foreground within the "extreme" close to the lens. If the distance is far enough away from the lens (i.e. 3-4 meters) the technique is no longer relevant.

• Make a stop down to ensure sharpness. Suppose you use a Canon 50D body, 18mm focal length and aperture f11, resulting from the DOF Master Calculator 1.53m hyperfocal distance and near the limit of 0.76m. To assure sharpness, you set the aperture at f16 (1 step below), so the foreground with a distance 76cm in front of the lens certainly sharp.

Tips on Buying Used Lens

Tips on Buying Used Lens - After you read guide to buy a DSLR camera lenses on this post and this post, one time you need a lens, but the financial situation is not enough to buy a new lens, so the solution is you have to look for second hand lenses. Excess buy second-hand lens is the price is cheaper than a new lens, but you should be careful before buying, so that your savings are not worth it.

Here are tips before you buy a second-hand lens:

1. Determine the required camera facility, type and brand of lenses that fit within the desired range of the available budget. To get an idea of price ranges, contact some camera stores over the phone.


2. Go to store lens, try a new lens, watch AF ring and zoom ring. some lenses rotate AF ring as it searches for its focus, this will affect the use of circular polarize filter (CPL). As you understand the conditions of the new lens, you will be expected to get a reference of comparison to the used lens.


3. Make sure you try first lens you want to buy. Make sure the autofocus-motor works smoothly (if the lens autofocus)


4. Check also part of the lens, do not get any scratches, dewy, or fungi.


5. Note the bolt on the outside and inside of the lens, if the bolt is not good, it means that the lens has been opened before.


6. For conditions inside the lens, bring a small flashlight to see it, either from the front or from the rear, notice the dust on the inside of the lens, if it can be tolerated or not.


7. Try to put the lens on the camera for checking the DOF (depth of field), use a sheet of newspaper, put the paper on a flat surface, take the photo paper at an angle of about 40 degrees. focus on one word, e.g. the word "lens-kit", see the results, if the word "lens-kit" clearer than the surrounding words, means the lens is still in good condition, but these pictures could show the wrong focus sharp if not the word "lens-kit" is. This checking is very useful especially for a lens with a large aperture specifications, such as f/2.8 aperture or below, and make sure all lenses functions running properly.


8. Check that the lens aperture setting close fit in the shooting. Go to the back of the camera, set in Bulb mode, and press the shutter. Perform this test on the entire range of the lens aperture.


9. Avoid lens with a zoom or focusing mechanism falters, too hard, or too loose.


10. Inspect the filter thread on the front of the lens, and make sure there is no damage or jam. When in doubt, do a test by installing a filter on the lens.


11. Avoid buying lenses online from an individual seller you do not know very well, because it's been a lot of fraud. Also avoid to transfer a down payment or pay in full with the promise of the lens will be shipped the same day, except to an online thrift shop that you know well.


12. Also make sure you receive a receipt from the seller for warranty claims, if any, and also to make sure that the lens you buy is not illegal.

Consider Before Buying Digital SLR Camera Part 2

Consider Before Buying Digital SLR Camera Part 2 - After you read non-technical considerations before buying a DSLR camera on previous post, now I try to discuss technical considerations. Considerations in choosing a DSLR camera can be very different from the pick pocket camera. This difference is caused among others by:

1. DSLR is a system that can be customized according the specific needs of the owner, is very different from a pocket camera that is all in.

2. The difference in lens technology, sensors, image processors and operating the buttons on each camera, which in turn distinguishing character results.

3. Almost all compact cameras use CCD sensor size 1/2.5" Sony products, while the DSLR has plenty of options other than CCD technology, such as:

• Canon-developed CMOS (and later also used by Nikon)
• NMOS used by Olympus

It also has sensors with different physical sizes, namely:

• Full-frame, used for high-end camera Pro
• APS-C, used in camera entry level and semi-pro
• 4/3, used by Olympus and Panasonic.

4. Availability accessories & supplies in addition to body & lens.

The availability of equipment and accessories can be an important consideration. Buying a DSLR is basically buying a system. Once you buy it, the system will 'lock' you always use supplies and accessories that are compatible with.

In this case, I think Canon and Nikon have the advantage because - as an old player who leads the market - is a lot of 3rd party accessories available on the market, for example:

• Lens: Sigma, Tamron, Tokina
• Flash: Nissin, Metz
• Battery grip: different types of brands.

Certainly in terms of accessories, the lens becomes a major consideration (learn before buying lens here and here). And it does not mean other brand cameras, in addition to Canon and Nikon, have no excess. Some of the advantages to be noted are:

• Sony can use the Carl-Zeiss and Minolta lens.
• Olympus has an advantage in dynamic range and color saturation in addition to innovative technologies.
• Pentax can use the many old lenses that have been proven sharpness & quality.

However, if you want to pursue photography, you should pay attention to the system, buy a DSLR camera is to buy a system. Especially if you are experienced and have the equipment to one brand. The benchmarks that you should consider are:

• Technology will continue to evolve. Today's sophisticated body, in a few years will be out of date.

• The lens has a longer lifespan than the body.

• Ability to operate a photographer, sensitivity of capturing moments and technical ability are more important than the pursuit of technological development.

Tips to Avoid General Fault in Photography

Tips to Avoid General Fault in Photography - In practice we usually see the results of our photos we did not expect, such as blurred images, photo speckled dark, or perhaps the subjects of our photos with red eyes. This post will provide information on how to avoid the common mistakes encountered in photography that produces images that we did not expect.

Reducing Shocks in Camera
 

Camera shake is caused by a combination of hand movements photographer or inability to keep the camera in a stationary or fixed condition, shutter speed and focus lens (focal length) long so that it will produce images that are blurry or out of focus. The focal length of the lens when combined with a slow shutter speed will create a situation in which the shutter speed is too slow to freeze the image.

Camera shake can be prevented by using a tripod, hold the camera with the right position or raise the shutter speed to a value greater than the focal length (focal length). For example, if the same focal length to 100mm so its shutter speed should be set to 1/100 sec or faster.

Note: Some lenses have image stabilizing features (eg IS Image Stabilizer on Canon lenses), which allows the photographer to take pictures with the shutter speed value is smaller than the focal length of the lens.

Eliminate the Red-eye Effect
 

Red-eye effect caused by the reflection of the flash directly behind the retina subjects we photograph. Basically, since most of the built-in flash which made ??only one or two inches from the lens, flash sends light that bounces off the back of the human retina, and reflects directly back into the camera lens. Reflections are seen in the image as red, thus creating a red eye effect. Blue-eyed people are very prone to red-eye phenomenon because it has less pigment to absorb light.

There are several ways you can do to minimize or eliminate red eye in pictures:

1. Red eye reduction feature
 

Some cameras have a red eye reduction feature that forces objects iris shrink before the picture is taken. Almost all digital cameras have this feature. This feature causes the flash to light up twice in two micro bursts. The first little flash to cause your subject's the pupil to contract and shrink, which reduces the amount of retina affected by the flash. When the second flash is triggered, contracted retina produces almost no visible red-eye effect.
The main problem with this method is that it often forcing objects to deliberately turn a blind eye before the picture is taken and not always completely eliminate red eye effect.

2. External flash
 

External flash hot-shoe mounted on the camera, the direction can be changed in the direction of the ceiling, or even use it without mounting the camera body and steer a little to the right or left of your subject.

3. Post production
If the images have been exposed to the red-eye effect, the photographer also still be able to eliminate it, using computer software such as Photoshop or the other, which will be discussed in upcoming posts.

Reducing Digital Noise
Digital noise is the effect polka dots (spots) on the image for long exposures or high ISO images with the lack of lighting situations.
Digital noise can be reduced by using the ISO setting between 100 and 400. Setting ISO 400 will give you more exposure but ISO 400 reduces digital noise. In anticipation of a long exposure, you need a tripod to freeze the image.
 

Currently DSLR cameras usually have a noise reduction feature, if its noise reduction is turned on it will automatically be activated when taking pictures with long exposures. The negative side of this feature is the camera takes a significant time-lag between taking pictures. One way to avoid this time-lag is to turn off noise reduction feature on the camera, and use the aperture setting noise reduction after transferring images to the computer.

8 Steps Before You Shoot

8 Steps Before You Shoot - Good photo is not obtained because of luck, but more to the decision-making. Lots of things to think about before making a photograph. For beginners, it's hard to think so many steps. But with a continuous exercise, I'm sure we'll be able to do it naturally. Here are 8 steps before you take pictures that you can use as a reference:

1. Find an interesting subject
 
Try to choose a subject of interest, such as busy roads, try to take portraits of people, a building, a car or an activity. Be careful not to put too many elements in the photo. Too much detail will make the people who see the picture became confused about what you want to convey.

2. The quality and direction of light
 
Knowing the quality and direction of light greatly affect the atmosphere of the photo. In general, there are three types of light:

• Hard light: Usually obtained from a relatively small light source / concentrated. For example: the sun, the camera flash, flashlight.
• Soft light: Usually obtained from a relatively large light source. For example, soft boxes, reflectors, ceiling surface.
• Diffused light: This light comes from a light source is relatively very large. For example, in the cloud or the sky covered with clouds.

Direction of light (front, rear, side, top, bottom) is also an important aspect to give a certain impression. Look carefully at the direction and quality of light.

3. The Composition
 
The first step in making a good composition is starting from choosing the background. Background clean / plain is a good first step. Then position the subject in layers. Arrange in such a way that the composition of the picture looks interesting.
If you are just starting photography, you can always learn the formula composition as a reference. Many of the rules of composition that can help you create an interesting composition as the rule of thirds, golden ratio, scale, etc.

4. Choose aperture
 
Aperture determines how much light into the camera body. Aperture also adjust the depth of focus (depth of field). The larger the aperture, the thinner the depth of focus and vice versa. We must determine whether the photos we take have a thin depth of field or thick.
 
In general, for portraits, we want a thin depth of field so that it looks more artistic portraits, so that wide aperture should we choose. But if we shoot landscape, we usually want all the elements in the images look clear and focused, then aperture that we should choose small.

5. Choose shutter speed
We must determine whether we want to freeze the subject of the picture, or record the movement of the subject. If we want to freeze the subject, we need to set the shutter speed carefully.

To prevent blur due to hand / camera shake, we also have to follow the rules of the lens focal size. Then we observe how fast your subject moves. Your subject moving at high speed requires a very fast shutter speed. Read posting How to Avoid Blurred Photos

6. Choose lens with optimum focal length
 
Not all lenses produce the same results. There is a wide lens, standard lens and a telephoto lens. Each focal lens has its own characteristics. Wide lens gives the impression dimensions, distortion, and thick depth of field. On the other hand, telephoto lenses make photos into two-dimensional (compression effect), make a thin depth of field and enlarge the far subject.
Try taking photos with different lenses and different focal lens to better understand the effects caused by each lens.

7. Determine the optimal exposure
 
The camera is usually automatically determine the optimal exposure. But sometimes the camera settings made are not to our liking. For example, if we want to make the photo low key (dark-toned photo) or high key (bright-toned photo), we must adjust itself so that the optimal camera settings.
 

Determine the camera exposure settings depending on what you visualize the end result with manual mode or use the exposure compensation function, when using automatic or semi-automatic settings (P, S, A)

8. Timing
 
Decide also whether the time of shooting is important or not. For photos still life (the subject is not moving), the timing might not be too important. But for candid photos, especially sports, timing is very important. If so, practice can take photos with the correct timing. Exercise anticipation, patience and controlled camera / photographic equipment so you can take photos with the optimal timing.

Setting for Golden Hour

Setting for Golden Hour - Now that we know How to Get Golden Hour and Why Golden Hour is always awaited by photographers on previous postings, this time you should know these tips camera settings to get the golden hour.

Here are 4 tips that can be practiced to capture the sunset, but the settings are really right for each occasion is not the same, so you may need to shift back and forth setting the following tips to get the right settings for your moment.

Setting #1 - General Setting

The goal is to capture the nuances of orange that appears before sunset. All you need to do is determine the speed & aperture settings right. To obtain the approximate setting, I use:

• mode A, f/16, ISO 100, metering SPOT
• metering the bright spot under the sun
• review images obtained
• shift mode from A to M and adjust the speed.

In settings like this, the sun is usually obtained with a round orange and object in the foreground silhouette.

Setting #2 - Foreground Silhouette

After obtaining the best setting to devote the setting sun, keep your setting by using the mode M. Look for interesting objects in the foreground so that the images appear more attractive.

Setting #3 - Fill In Flash

If you want to display the object in the foreground, there must be an additional light to compensate for the strong light in the background. The use of flash to be alternative solutions so that objects in the foreground appear.
Noteworthy is the maximum sync speed (the highest shutter speed that can be achieved when the flash is on). It will be one of the restrictions on the setting and should be compensated by the ISO or aperture settings.

Tips on Photographing Expressive Children Part 2

Tips on Photographing Expressive Children Part 2 - Mood that emanated from children face or their body language will make parents spellbound. Children expression is a miracle. They seemed to have their own world that can not be penetrated by an adult. The world is what makes it so special, there can be no compulsion for them, there was just a close approach to the world the way they are.

The approach should approach their world and for that reason, their photograph has its own challenges. Here are tips and tricks for photographing children as a continuation of the first part:

Waiting Patiently for the Right Moment
Children are usually active and are not always willing to listen to instruction, so that they seemed to be the boss for a photo shoot. Talk to them, build a relationship with them in a short time, so that they feel comfortable with your presence. Watch them and you should be ready with your camera for a good moment to be photographed, for it requires patience in order to get a good and interesting moments to be photographed, do not do it in a hurry because it will produce a mediocre. But also do not hesitate to shoot as much as possible at the right moment.

Photograph Children When They're Playing with Toys
Children usually very close to their toys, especially their favorite toys. Featured is their time playing with toys and looking for moments that show interest in the relationship between them and the toys. If you want, you can focus on their hand while playing with their toys without taking their face.

Note the Background and Foreground
Unless there is a specific purpose, avoid shooting in the neighborhood with the foreground and background is cluttered and unwanted. Avoid something vertical behind them that will look like as if it comes from their head. The main object that you notice is the children, remove unwanted objects to emphasize the object.

Look at the Color
If you know the place you're going, plan carefully by choosing a good combination of colors between the children's clothes and background / surroundings. Avoid wearing the same colors / similar to the environment, because it will make children less prominent in the photos.

Do A Photo Shoot in the Morning or Afternoon
When shooting outdoors, should be done in early morning or late afternoon when the sunlight angle is low and the quality of light is better and softer. If you do not have a choice but to shoot at a high angle of the sunlight at noon, try to find a shady spot under a tree or where the sunlight is blocked by tall buildings.

Use Windows or Curtains to Reduce Light
When shooting indoors, try to position the child at the window with his face to the window or one side of his face illuminated by the light from the window. If you have a thin white curtain, use blinds to diffuse light and create a soft lighting if necessary.

Focus on Their Eyes
The most beautiful part of the children are the eyes, for that try to do a photo shoot with a focus on their eyes when you shoot at an angle to the face.

Look for Expression, Emotion and Relationships

Capturing children's expressions, emotions and their relationships with parents or friends will help make a better photo and story telling. So look funny faces, laughter, laughter and even tears.

Rule of Third

Photo source: http://erincobb.com/

Try to be creative with the composition. If you're a regular photographing children by placing them in the center of the photo, try a different approach now. Put their position by following the Rule of Third (their position at the intersection of the line if the area of the photo is divided into 9 equal parts).

Align the Position Camera With Their Eyes
Photographing children from a high angle perspective creates unpleasant. Bring your camera position their eyes in a way parallel squat or lie down.

Lets try these tips!

Tips on Photographing Expressive Children Part 1

Tips on Photographing Expressive Children Part 1 - Children with all their activities are attractions to be photographed. Expression of natural and funny and adorable doings are their main attraction. But making all the charms that you want can be seen in the photo is the challenge. Candid style photographs and photo studio if executed properly would be an interesting photo. Shooting with objects children can be difficult because the child can not "lie". So shooting with objects children require not only proper technique, but also the ability to understand their condition.
 

Here are some tips that will help you capture their expressions they are cute and innocent:

Mood. It must be ensured that the child was in a good mood, not being sad or upset. Most people would rather see a child in a state of excited with a bright smile. If the child's mood is not good, let his condition improved before starting shooting.

Let Them in Action Spontaneous. Today we are directing that the children pose in a certain style, they will begin to lose the spontaneity and confidence. So let them stylish and spontaneous expression. The most powerful way is to invite them to play-a-boo, or if they are too big to play boo, invite them to chat. Ask the name, the name of the mother / father of her, ask her school etc, then let the conversation flow ... and .. snap ... snap!

Align the camera with their eyes. If you want their body looks proportional (the head no bigger than the body), you should squat or lie down, because their bodies are naturally much shorter than us. Unless you want a certain effect and angle. Shooting at their eyes level position (normal angle) can make photos more interesting.

Mode 'sport' or 'continuous'. In anticipation of the children who tend to move on, the choice is to use a high shutter speed (mode S with a minimum speed of 1/250 on a DSLR or prosumer) or use the 'sport' mode on the pocket camera. And use 'continuous' mode to get more choice photos. If using a DSLR camera, using a lens with a wide aperture will be very beneficial.
 

Benefit Tools. Not all kids like stylish and graceful pose, especially if you know they're in the picture. If the child seems awkward, embarrassed or too stiff, you should use the tools available. Toys are the most powerful tools, if they like to play dolls give the doll. If they like to play toy cars, toy cars provide. If the toy is not available, you can use a chair, a book or even a pen. So that they will forget that they are the object image and begin to express themselves spontaneously.

Do not Force Them Smile. Forced they say "cheeerssss...", Then you will get a forced smile, lips drawn stiff. Nice pose is not having to always smile and there are some children who are faced serious.

Sufficient light. Light is the main capital shooting. If there is not sufficient lighting, try to get enough light to shoot outdoors.

Photograph as much as possible.

To be continued...

DSLR Lens Buying Guide - Part 2

DSLR Lens Buying Guide Part 2 is the next clues before you buy dslr lenses. Unlike if you have a pocket or a prosumer camera, where the lens can not be changed, the owner of DSLR camera lens requires precision in choosing to be purchased, as each type of lenses designed specifically for a particular shoot. But DSLR camera manufacturers anticipate the needs scene by attaching the kit lens that is a lens vario, which is designed to meet the initial needs of the buyer or user to a certain extent because the lens kit is economical to reduce the price of DSLR camera package offered to the market.

After a lot of shooting with the default kit lens camera the photographer will definitely feel the lack of such a kit lens, so that he would decide to buy a new and better lenses. The question is "what kind of lens you should buy?" For photographing macro would be better results if you use a macro lens, photographing landscape will be better results if you use a wide-angle with fixed-aperture. Similarly, macro photograph will not be good results if you use a wide angle lens.

To be emphasized here is no need to buy all types of lenses. Select the lens that best suits your photography needs the most preferred and most frequently performed.

To be able to decide what type of lens to buy, do some research as follows:

1. Take photos with the kit lens as often as possible with good planning.
2. Periodically, inventorying your photo collection and create a classification that found photography categories most frequently performed.
3. Detailed diagnostic photographs of most categories and determine the necessary repairs of the lens, for example:

• less sharp focus
• less blur bokeh
• less precise tonal
• less rapid response, etc..

Job demands

An understanding of this photo category, allowing us to determine the criteria of the lens that we need, for example:

• Paparazzi and sports journalists often take photos from a distance and speed of response necessary in order not to miss the moment, so need a telephoto lens with a focal distance (over 200 mm) equipped with an image stabilizer and ultrasonic motors.

• Photo studio with lighting products in a limited, need a lens with a shorter focal length (between 18 and 50 mm), can shoot from close range (macro) and wide aperture.

• Photo stage / show requires a lens capable of shooting in low-light conditions (wide aperture / fast lens), fast response (ultrasonic motor or the like), and long focus (200 mm or more).

• For photojournalism, travel, human interest, what is needed is flexibility and foresight to capture the moment. Vario lens with wide range and light weight is the best suited to meet these needs, e.g. 18-135 mm or 18-200 mm.

After knowing the criteria lenses we need, then we can look for a lens that suits needs and budget.

How To Avoid Blurred Photos

How to avoid blur in photos - After my post Tips for Sharp Picture and Some Causes of Blur Photos in previous posts, the following is my post how to avoid a blurred picture. These posts are very related.

There are two main factors causing blurry photo:

1. The shutter speed setting is too slow compared to the focal length

Generally to avoid blurred photos due to hand shake you should use the Shutter Speed reference:

Shutter speed = 1 / focal length

For example, if you use lens with 100mm focal length, your camera shutter speed should be set at 1/100 second or faster.
This reference available to DSLR with full frame sensor. If your camera has cropped sensor (APSC), such as cropped Canon camera uses factor 1.6x, Nikon Sony, and Pentax use factor 1.5x, Olympus and Panasonic use factor 2x.
So if you have Canon DSLR camera with cropped sensor and use 100mm lens, the save minimum shutter speed from blurred due to hand shake is 1/160 second.
The question is "Why longer focal length need faster shutter speed?" Because the longer focal length, the more sensitive sensor to capture the vibe.

2. The object you are photographing moved too fast

So that the shutter speed must also follow the rapid motion of the subject of the photo. For example, to freeze the motion of the person running a basketball player, you need a minimum of 1/500. For dancers and singers, usually 1/200 enough, and to photograph people who do not move 1/60 is usually pretty good.

How to prevent blur

There is technology in cameras and lenses designed to prevent blur. This type of technology is divided into two categories. The first one is in the camera, in the lens the other. The name varies, among other Image Stabilization (IS), Vibration Reduction (VR), Steady Shot (SS), Shake Reduction (SR) Mega OIS, Optical Stabilization (OS) and Vibration Compensation (VC). This technology can help you but can not help in total. For example, once you have to use a 1/200, but with the help of technology, you can use 1/100 or 1/60. This technology can not prevent blur when you are taking photos of people or objects moving quickly.

Another thing that can be used to prevent blur, among others, the camera holding technique and breathing techniques. By holding your breath while taking a picture, and put the body by meeting or leaning on walls, can help reduce the vibration that produces blur.

In addition to those mentioned above, there are still other factors that affect, among other things:

1. Direction of motion of moving subjects: Subjects were moving toward and away from the camera will be easier to freeze than the subject moves from left to right or vice versa.

2. The distance between the camera with a moving subject: The farther the distance, the more easily freeze the subject rather than a subject that is close.

In practice, we often can not use a high shutter speed to freeze the subject of the picture due to dark field conditions. Thus, by using these principles is our advantage.

If we are photographing people or objects approaching us from the front, then we can use the shutter speed a bit more slowly, so photographing subjects that are far from us. But be careful if your subject is near to us or movement from left to right / right to left camera, we need to increase the aperture / shutter speed if you want to freeze the subject movement.

DSLR Lens Buying Guide - Part 1

DSLR lens buying guide part 1 - is the answer the question "Which lens should I buy?" after we know the types of DSLR lenses. This post will discuss some of the factors into consideration when buying a DSLR Lenses. Each of the features below will be different in each lens.
 

Lens Speed

Lens Speed or how fast a lens is actually closely related to the maximum aperture is owned by the lens. Aperture is the size of the lens opening when the shutter button is pressed (or how much light enters the camera). Aperture is denoted by F (f-stop).

The smaller number makes wider aperture, and there will be more light coming in at one time. This means the shutter speed becomes faster. Lens speed should you know due to:

• Lens "fast" with a maximum aperture of f/1.4 allows you to shoot in relatively dark place better than the lens has a maximum aperture of f / 4 or f/5.6, but that does not mean a slower lens is not good.

• The "fast" lens allows you to retrieve the moving object without getting motion blur.

• Lens "fast" allows you to get the depth of field of thinner / narrower. This means that when you focus on a subject in the foreground the background will be blurry or out of focus. Having a lens 'fast' of course means it is possible to get focusing a little more 'tricky', given the depth of field is used very thin / narrow. For example, when photographing portrait of a face with f/1.4 aperture and focus on the eyes, then most likely you will find the nose a little out of focus.

• The 'fast' lens is usually more expensive than a slower lens.

• The faster lenses would be helpful in terms of flash photography in recording or taking ambient light.

As a reference:

• Lens speed aperture lens with f / 4 is usually good for general purpose photography with good lighting conditions
• f/5.6 requires good lighting or features image stabilization (IS / VR)
• If you shoot indoor without flash, then at least use a lens with f/2.8, and
• If you are shooting indoor sports then at least use f/2.0 or 'faster'.

Focal Length

Focal length is length of the lens. This measurement is the distance between the middle of the optical lens to the focal point on the camera sensor. What you should know is that the focal length of a lens inform you when photographing subjects how much will be enlarged. Focal Length also inform the angle of view.

Focus Distance
This is the measurement between the end of the lens with the closest point of object. This is useful when shooting in macro or close-up photography, because this type of photography requires a very close distance of the object to end of the lens.

Image Stabilization

This feature is useful for minimizing vibration or shaking the camera (Camera Shake). Most DSLR lenses is now equipped with image stabilization (the Canon lens known as IS, and the Nikon lens is known as VR).

Camera Shake is a movement that occurs when the shutter is opened. This incident had a greater impact on the photos when we use slow speed, no tripod, and when use a lens with a longer focal length.

Image Stabilization helps photographers reduce camera shake at low light levels, but it does not freeze the moving subject. Basically IS allows us to take photos at lower shutter speed which the camera aperture open a little longer.

IS features mean additional cost on a lens, so you need a consideration of whether the activity of shooting with lenses that require this feature or not. Example: Do you frequently shoot in low light conditions using a long focal length without a tripod?

Budget

Considerations in buying lenses when going to upgrade is the cost. Most people agree that "we get what we pay", and we prefer to upgrade the lens than replace the camera body (depending on conditions). A little wary of the 'kit lens', in many circumstances these lenses are good, but we think it would be better if we buy only the camera body and then choose a better lens than the kit.

Brand

There are so many opinions say that to produce great photos should use a lens with the same brand with the camera compared to using cheaper third party lenses. In our opinion, for the first time try to find the same brand lens with the camera body, if you can not find try to find the lens of a third party. The fact is that every lens manufacturer has produced good and less good lenses that have been circulating in the market. Do your research before buying a lens through websites and forums that provide a review and comparison.

To be continued...here

Some Causes of Blur Photos

Some Causes Blur Photos - This post is a continuation of the post Tips for Sharp Picture. In this post I will emphasize the causes blurry photo.

Here are some of the causes:

Sensor size - Camera sensor size varies, the larger, more easily create a blurry background. Camera phones or compact cameras have a sensor size is relatively small compared with the digital SLR camera. In the digital SLR camera, subdivided some kind of sensor size.
The smallest to the largest are: Four thirds (ratio of 4 by 3), there is a crop sensor 1.6 (Canon), 1.5 (Nikon, Pentax, Sony), there is also a full frame (Nikon, Sony) and medium format (phase One, Leica S2, Pentax 645D).

Aperture - By using a large aperture lens (f/2.8 or larger such as f/1.4), then the background becomes more blurred.

No focus - This may be a result of the focus on the wrong part of the object, too close to the object so that the focus can not be obtained, the error selecting aperture that produces a very narrow depth of photo (smaller f number, e.g. f/2) or take photos too quickly without check first in the viewfinder.

The ratio of the distance between the subject of the picture with the camera and the distance between the subject with the background - The closer the camera is to the subject of the picture and the farther your subject with the background, the picture becomes more blurred.
Example: When the camera is on your subject distance of 10cm, and the distance of the subject of the image to the background of 20m, it can certainly be very blurred background. This is because the distance ratio of camera to subject and subject to background is very large.
Conversely if the distance of the camera to the subject of the picture 20m, and the distance to the subject of the photo background 10cm, it can certainly be a very clear background / sharp.

Lens focal length - The larger the lens focal length is used, then the background becomes more blurred. Example: Background photo taken with a 55mm lens focal length more blurred than when taken with a 18mm lens focal length.

Moving objects - is another form of photo blur due to take a moving object by using a slow shutter speed.

Camera shake - shake the camera is usually derived from the movement of the photographers themselves while taking pictures to produce photo blur.

Noise - The photos were found spots of the image pixels, usually derived from errors in setting the ISO, the more ISO noise level is also growing.

And here are additional tips to get sharp photos:

1. Hold the camera correctly when shooting
The best way to overcome camera shake when shooting is to use a tripod but it is not practical to carry because of its size that takes place. The practical way is to hold the camera properly.

2. Use the camera and lens that have Image Stabilization feature
Many cameras and lenses currently equipped with Image Stabilization (IS), which helps reduce the effects of camera shake when shooting so that the resulting images could be sharper. But keep in mind that IS only helps stabilize the camera movement is not stabilizing the movement of objects.

3. Use a good lens
If you have a higher budget then buy a better lens to get a sharper image quality than always using a standard lens. For Canon lenses, better quality for L-series lenses (professional series lenses).

4. Clean the camera equipment regularly
Each finished using the camera moreover used outdoors, do not forget to clean appliances such as camera lenses and camera sensor from stains, dust and dirt as it will affect the images (cause spotting on the photo).

The conclusion of this post is how to make the background out of focus photo becomes very blurry or bokeh?

The answer is:

• Use wide aperture lens
• Use longer focal length
• Note the distance ration between camera, subject and background
• Use camera with big sensor size.

Pocket or DSLR?

Pocket or DSLR - There are two major groups of different types of digital cameras: Pocket and DSLR.

1. Compact camera (commonly called pocket camera), is a compact system and has integrated, has a whole section full of a digital camera.
2. DSLR camera, is a camera system that consists of two major subsystems, namely:

• mechanical-electronic subsystems (body), and
• mechanical-optical subsystem (lens)

Main Difference

The most obvious difference between the two categories is the ability of DSLR camera to replace the lens that will be used in accordance with the needs of photographers. In addition the issue of this lens, there are significant differences, but not visible, the difference in sensor size:

• Compact digital cameras usually have a smaller sensor size 1/2.5 inch to 1/1.6 inches.

• DSLR cameras have the larger sensor size, which is 22.2 x 14.8 mm (APS-C) or 35x24 mm (full frame).

• The development of sensor technology enables Olympus to develop smaller size (4/3 inch) than the APS-C DSLR cameras for her which was followed by Panasonic cameras with micro-4/3.

The difference in sensor size has an impact on the ability of a camera captures the light. The most obvious differences in results due to the influence of the size of the sensor can be seen from the level of noise in the photos using a high ISO (> ISO 200). The camera with a small sensor size would produce more noise at high ISO.

Though somehow, there are still advantages of pocket camera with small sensor, namely:

• Its compact size
• Light weight
• ease of use
• A more affordable price

What about picture quality and sharpness?

Apparently, the shooting conditions in the outdoor and sunny weather, it is almost impossible to distinguish the results from a compact camera or DSLR. More surprising yet, the images that we see on camera affected barely used. Ken Rockwell article below can serve as a reference:Your Camera Doesn't Matter and A $25 vs. a $5,000 Camera

In fact, production and market demand for compact camera / pocket remains larger than a DSLR camera.

How to Customize White Balance DSLR Camera

How to Customize White Balance DSLR Camera - This question will arise if we would shoot with complex lighting. Is the photographer able to overcome this? This post is a continuation of the post White Balance in Photography.

Some cameras, especially SLR and prosumer, provides manual white balance setting. Manual settings are the most accurate if we are confused by our light source color temperature. This usually occurs in a photo shoot with a more complex light sources (more than one type of color temperature). So the custom White Balance is the right way to solve this complex lighting.

Here's how to customize white balance correctly:

• Look for the white paper, white shirt, white walls, or any other with white color. If the white stuff is not available, you can use the gray matter.

• Place the paper or something white / gray so that lighted by the complex light where you will be photographing. Position the camera so that the paper fills the entire frame photos. (see picture above)

• Set White Balance in custom or manual mode, set the focus in manual focus position, then take a metering. Keep impartial exposure (not under but not over-exposure). Then photograph paper or object. The camera will detect the white and store the temperature, confirmation will appear on the camera's LCD screen when the settings are OK.

• The next step is to put a picture as the standard for white balance setting:

1. Canon camera settings (Canon 60D):

• Press the Menu button, use the Main Dial to lead to the Shooting Menu tab. Highlight Custom White Balance, and then press Set.
• Use the Quick Control Dial, highlight the photo you just took, press Set and then Ok.

2. Nikon camera settings (Nikon D3100): 

• Search White Balance menu. Select the Preset Manual.
• Select the Use Photo. It would appear that you have a recent photo taken. Select Image Select, then Ok.

An easier way is to use an accurate and additional accessories called expodisc or kenko, prices range from US$80 to US$150.

White Balance in Photography

White balance in Photography - is a crucial aspect in the world of photography and the effect on the final image. The camera is actually not really recognize colors. Displayed by the camera is how different frequencies of light reflected from an object to a different frequency of light that becomes the standard of comparison. An understanding of the process of color reproduction is very important in photography that require a high level of color accuracy, for example in product photos, fabric color, light graphics, etc..

Auto White Balance

Color 'white' was chosen as the standard comparator because it is a neutral color. In the full-frequency lighting conditions, the white color will reflect all light frequencies, so the white object is an object that reflects light with the highest intensity. But because it is a neutral, white would be red when illuminated by a red light, it looks blue in the light blue, and so on. Under these conditions, the Auto White Balance on the camera set up to recognize 'the reflection of the object with the highest intensity' and use it as a standard color 'white' to do color correction.

As a result, in certain conditions, the camera can reproduce wrong colors because there is no white object on the object captured. In this condition the required precision of the photographer to help the camera do color correction, but not in sunset/sunrise photography for example.

(Photo source: www.hootphotography.com)

White Balance Setting

Each camera has a different way of setting, so you should refer to the manual if it has not so far found a way. If you are still confused, use the auto white balance mode. The camera may not always be right, but at least more true.

Here are presets that are normally available on any compact cameras:

• Auto - the camera will guess the color temperature based program planted by the camera manufacturer. You can use it in most situations, but not in every situation. So try to explore to the more tricky lights.
• Daylight / Sunny - usually with the symbol of the sun, use while in the sun. Not all cameras have this white balance preset, because it is almost the same as the normal White Balance.
• Cloudy - symbolized by the cloud, use when shooting in cloudy weather. Usually this presets will generally give a touch more 'warm' than Daylight preset.
• Shade - usually a house or a tree symbol, use when shooting indoors (during the day) or you are in the shadows - not direct sunlight. The light is in shadow (shade) is generally cooler (blue) compared to shooting under direct sunlight, so the settings are a little warm.
• Tungsten/Incadescent - symbolized by the icon of the bulb. Because it is suitable for use when you are shooting indoors with tungsten light sources / incadescent like bulb. In general, these presets will cool color photos.
• Fluorescent - symbolized by the iconic neon lights, use when shooting indoors with fluorescent lighting. In general, these presets will warm color photos.
• Flash - symbols flash, if you use the flash (strobe), use this preset. The light generated by a camera flash can be quite 'cool', so this arrangement will warm colors on the photo.
• Custom - This will be discussed in the next post.

A summary of the description you can see above table.

Kelvin White Balance

Kelvin White Balance usually found on professional DSLR cameras. Basically, preset white balance are based on a temperature difference of each color of light. At Kelvin White Balance presets determined from an understanding of physics that objects with a certain temperature will emit light with a certain frequency as well. Solar light emitted by an object with a temperature of 5500K. Fluorescent light has a temperature of 4000K, 3000K incandescent lamp.
 

(Photo source: www.berkelphoto.com)

Error in degrees Kelvin settings will produce the wrong color. The benchmarks are:

• If the images produced bluer mean temperature setting is too low.
• If the images produced yellowish, then setting the temperature too high.

Types of Camera Lenses

As of today, there are many types of camera lenses on the market to meet the needs of photographers, both functional and just a hobby. On the job, a photographer sometimes use more than one lens, for example, a wide-angle lens to take landscape photographs, and a standard lens to photograph detailed houses.

My observation has been circulating in the market 6 types of lenses, namely:

1. Standard zoom lens is a lens with a vario lenses which focal distance can be changed and maximum aperture changes with focus distance. This lens is suitable for a variety of personal documentation purposes. Kit lens 18-55 mm, 18-70 mm, 28-80 mm are including these lens types. Because of crude quality, many people are looking for better quality. For example: for a wider zoom range to choose from 18-105 mm, 28-135 mm, 28-200 mm, and so on. For more sharpness normally used Tamron 17-50 mm or Carl Zeiss 16-80 mm.

2. Prime lens have a fixed focal distance so that have the best quality and sharpness, but the photographers should take a lot of foot-steps to adjust the composition and proportions of the photos. Lenses of this type include 50 mm f/1.8. Alternatively, for example, 50 mm f/1.4, 50 mm f/1.2, 85 mm f/3.5, 135 mm f / 4, and so on.

3. Wide lens is a lens with a shorter focal length to obtain the space of view (FOV - Field Of View) wider. Lenses that are of this type, including the 10-22 mm, 11-18, etc. Another development is the fish-eye lens, such as Samyang 8 mm.

4. Fast lens is a lens with a wide aperture. The lens has a number of aperture f/2.8, f / 2, f/1.8 or smaller. The advantage, with a wide aperture, the shutter speed can be obtained higher. That's why it earned the nickname fast lens. The side effects of a wide aperture is lens blur or bokeh due to narrow DoF (Depth of Field).

5. Macro lens is a lens that has a special construction that allows for photographs of objects from a short distance (50 cm or less). True macro lens has a 1:1 magnification capability, while the specifications that widely used are 100 mm f/2.8 Macro, 50 mm f/2.8 macro, and so on. However, 3rd party lens manufacturers such as Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina develop vario lens with 1:4 macro capability, 1:5 or 1:7, such as the Tamron 18-200 Di II LD Aspherical Macro which has a minimum object distance of 45 cm with a magnification of 1:4.

6. Super telephoto lens is a lens with a focal length above 180 mm, for example 100-400 mm, 170-500 mm, and so on. The lens type is suitable for shooting sports, wildlife, bird watching, and other objects that do not allow photographers approach the object directly.

Apart from the focus distance and aperture, note also the additional features on the lens that will provide convenience (with prices to match), including:

• Motor high quality lens that is more responsive, thus ensuring sharpness of moving objects. Lenses of this type usually has a special code that is different from any manufacturer, such as SSM (Super Sonic Motor), HSM (High Speed Motor), DX, SAM, etc.

• Image stabilizer is a feature that allows you to absorb shocks in a photo shoot with a low speed. This feature also has a different code, such as IS (Image Stabilizer) in the canon, VR (Vibration Reduction) in Nikon, SSS (Super Steady Shoot) on Sony, etc.

• Coating (optical lens coating chemicals) is an important factor because the response of a digital sensor to light different from the reaction to the film. Problems with the coating can cause flare, chromatic aberration (CA), ghosting, etc.. Digital lenses typically have several layers that are marked MC (multi-coated) which in general has a better performance than the old lenses are still single coating.

• Aspheric lens is a construction containing aspheric lens elements and serves to reduce the refraction spherical aberration caused by the shape of a convex lens.

• Low Dispersion is a minimal dispersion (spread) of light of optical element, so that the intensity of light reaching the sensor becomes higher and obtain more details.